Brings to the fore a new spectacle in the fashion world
The Lakmé Fashion Week concluded with some impressive shows, inspiring fashion trends and upsurge in business of fashion was held from August 16-20 at St. Regis in Lower Parel. Some of the most reputed and much talented designers this season were Sanjay Garg, Amit Aggarwal and of course the popular Manish Arora who made a comeback to the runway after 6 long years. Since the Lakme Fashion Week encourages and introduces new talent every season, this season too you there were 5 new designers showcasing their designs.The Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2017garnered stupendous response from media and all stakeholders involved.The Fashion Week was organised by IMG Reliance Pvt. Ltd and Lakme together. In the next few pages we are publishing some of the designers collections displayed during the show.
Niloufer by Anushree Reddy
When the inspiration is the lovely Princess Niloufer of Hyderabad and daughter-in-law of the Nizam of the State, the collection has to be a royal bridal offering.Unleashing a memorable line for the most important day in a girl’s life, she recreated the nostalgic, classic, silhouettes and styles of yesteryears. Using soft luxurious fabrics like pure hand woven ahimsa silk, dreamy organza and pure organic mulmul along with amazing texturing, the designer ensured that the ensembles were truly fit for a princess. Lush pure fabrics appeared in a delicate colour palette with glittering embellishments. Shades of peachy pink worked with burnt orange, sunset yellow, ink blue, magenta, ivory and gold along with the soft pastels.Detailing came in the form of scallops, frothy frills, ruffles, and lots of layering for the voluminous as well as clean silhouettes. There was an enchanting blend of European styles from where Princess Niloufer hailed to the rich heritage embroidery of the Nizam era.Making a dramatic entry was the pale green, layered organza lehenga worn with a seductive off-shoulder yellow embroidered cropped top.
Tales of Indulgence’ by Manish Malhotra
The men’s wear had the characteristic stylish touches Manish is renowned for. Using the NEXA colours of black, white and chrome, he brought a mélange of evening, club festive and occasion wear. The bespoke suits had the attention-grabbing details and designing for the coming season. Baggy pleated pants with rouched ankles will set and Indo-west trend. Long velvet coats with peak lapels, embroidered lapel jackets, velvet smoking options, collarless jackets with embellished sleeves and double-breasted velvet numbers with fur emphasis on the shoulders were interesting additions.Lapels were discreet with black being the favoured colour. The narrow trousers’ lengths stopped at the ankle with turn-ups at times edged in black over grey. The sophisticated white tuxedo appeared with a black shawl collar but with a tulle bow to break fashion norms. To match the formal wear men’s segment, Manish’s women’s wear offerings were an assortment of evening and cocktail creations in a selection of fabrics along with handcrafted embellishments. It was a breath-taking array of glitter, dazzle and glamour with crystals, sequins and zari along with giant beaded tasselled accents making dramatic style statements.
Sanjay Garg presents Ethereal ‘Cloud People’ collection
The stunning, yet understated collection was the designer’s interpretation for ‘Liquid Gold’ and Lakmé‘s beauty theme of ‘Argan oil’.Garg’s designs were synonymous with the innocent purity and bliss that angels represent. The intricate details revealed soft feathers and scalloped clouds of angels in flight which were made in handcrafted Chikankari on Bengal mul, zardozi and hand-woven brocade. The angelic motifs, floral prints and geometric figures gave a serene and other-worldly aura to the whole collection. Just like Argan oil is known to blend with the skin to make it lustrous and flawless, the drapes and minimalist work of Sanjay’s designs became one with the body to exemplify class and poise.
Vibrant collection by Masaba Gupta
Aimed at the destination wedding in the tropics for the millennial bride’s trousseau, Masaba Gupta presented her bridal collection inspired by Himalayan Orchard Pure. Opening the show with a dramatic keyhole neck, long, balloon- sleeved, slinky maxi; Masaba unleashed more maxis with white tulle capes, body hugging cholis with pants, shaded black/white sari and pinafores teamed with bell bottom pants. Kurtas were draped or layered, while polo neck long-sleeved Tees were worn with drop-crotch pants. A trapeze tunic and sharara, mini with poncho cover and the grand maroon gown with a gorgeous floor skimming cape were eye-catching entries. Corsets appeared with saris, skirts and dresses to highlight the moulding and contouring nature of the collection.The silhouettes were daring and indeed contemporary as flowing anarkalis swirled on the ramp with attached capes and corsets. Clouded silk dresses were detailed with knotted seams. Making a flamboyant entry were the bow tops, teamed with drop crotch dhotis; while patchwork capes added to the vibrant appeal of the collection.Saris were deconstructed and worn with sharply cut trousers but slip dresses appeared with fluid throws.
Anavila’s Fashionable ‘Blur’
It was an enlightening fashion blur that educated the audience on the finer aspects of the colour black and how it can be the bright ‘light’ in a woman’s wardrobe.Intriguing, fierce, totally neutral, mysterious, that commands formality – the colour black has been the staple hue for every designer globally.But Anavila’s treatment of this strong tone was more romantic and intense as she brought in a new fashion dimension and varying hues of the colour with utter fluidity, delicate softness, and eye-catching beauty along with a fragile sense of delicacy. Anavila also focused on ease and comfort as the prime factors for the garments and saris. Creating exclusively designed hand block prints, along with khatwa, hand embroidery and batik for surface texturing, the designer ensured that there was an in-depth and new found excitement in the ensembles.Once again staying true to her love for loom linen and its numerous blends, Anavila experimented with silk, wool and Khadi to present an unconventional winter textile offering.
The Wendell Rodricks Plus Size Bonanza Show
The ‘aLL ‘PRIMERO’ collection was a rule breaker starting with the colours – white, which has been taboo for too long where Plus sizes are concerned was very much in now. Then it was neutrals, grey and clothes with great volume that gave confidence to the wearer.The fabric choice too was adventurous with modal featured in moss crêpe, Lycra, cotton satin, jacquard, polyester georgette, single jersey, Lycra cotton and mercerised Giza for men’s T-shirts. Linen dobby stripes were an interesting part along with over-dyed twill Lycra that was perfect for men’s and women’s jeans. Men’s shirts featured deconstructed plackets, mull bundies, tunics, and twill cotton. The Lycra shirts with contrast stitch detail, poly knits, silver speck foil prints, crush pleated poly georgette and pewter shine stripes completed the extensive fabrics and detailing choices.Women’s wear was a kaleidoscope of colours as fluid creations floated down the ramp on the jaunty confident models. Layered tunics, asymmetric gowns, swinging dresses, capes and kaftans -some speckled with silver heart motifs.
Antar Agni by UjjawalDubey
His new line amalgamated the timeless quality of eastern classic silhouettes with international trends, thus bringing a certain amount of disobedience to his collection. Setting aside traditional cuts and the production of men’s and women’s wear, he brought in an intelligent merger of the rough textiles and sheen along with his characteristic flowing, straight or crooked, light with heavy structures.The surprise element of the show was Ujjawal’s new colour palette, which stayed loyal to black and charcoal grey but brought in pops of lavender, dark burgundy, air force blue or cadet grey. Men’s wear had the characteristic asymmetric silhouettes for waist coats and kurtas. Short coats had interesting small lapels, but Sherwanis and a variety of baggy trousers and kurtas were often teamed with lapel coats. Knit Sherwanis, collarless shirts and shawl collar jackets made great fashion statements. Women’s wear had a gentle, feminine, touch with stark shapes.
The Black Monk by Divyam Mehta
The designer dreamt the collection predominantly in black and cement grey. The effortless styling was interpreted with layered drapes, skirts, and relaxed wide leg monk trousers, an assortment of wraps and robes that exuded easy fluidity. Divyam also took a hint of inspiration from the artworks of French artist Jean Degottex to give a more comprehensive angle to his theme and designs. The delicate Shibori patterns and interesting block prints gave an innovative texturing to the handloom wool and matka silks. But it was the imaginative Kantha work from Bengal and the thread embroidery that finally completed the ethereal look. The men’s wear started with a fluid kurta and loose trousers, black/ white coat, cropped/crushed shirt and dhoti pants. Women’s wear was as spiritual in nature with draped front-tied skirt and coat, asymmetric layered dress, an interestingly draped sari, toga-style midi, black sack dress and skirt, kimono cover and draped dress.
Arpita Mehta’s Midnight Muse
The fabrics on Arpita’s favoured list were silk, chiffon, Tabi silk and georgette that were moulded into the most gorgeous, feminine silhouettes.Introducing an exclusively created lotus inspired print; Arpita ensured it was the mainstay of the looks. Bird motifs were an addition to create a great flora and fauna fantasy. Embellishments were the highlight on the garments, as an assortment of thread work, 3D appliqués, along with sequins dazzled on the creations.Ornate jackets were juxtaposed with a clever mix of fluid, flowing silhouettes that offered versatile options. Arpita’s formal wear creations were replete with bunches of the colourful lotus motif on an ink blue background that was stunning in its feminine beauty and designs. Also seen on the ramp were pretty slip dresses, some sharply constructed jackets, pleated palazzo pants, cropped top sets and feminine ruffled floral lehengas.It was a fabulous fantasy of great formal wear, starting with the bandeau top and slit skirt worn with a matching cover. Lehengas looked stunning with bralets, while off-shoulder gypsy tops, long slit pencil skirts and flared strappy tops with floor skimming lehengas gave a variety to the wearer.
Ridhi Mehra Sekhri’s‘Adorne’ bridal collection
Ridhi’s ‘Adorne’ collection was inspired by the beauty and intricate interiors of Islamic domes.Known for her innovative techniques, Ridhi presented printed, handmade, fabric stripes ingeniously woven together. The delicate bugle beads were turned into jaalis, while scallop print patches, fringes and tantalizing metallic and fabric tassels added oomph to the ensembles. To highlight the demi couture nature of the garments, Ridhi introduced laser cutwork on leatherette with metallics; splashes of butas with laser cut mirror effect sheets and tonal leatherette laser cut patches to highlight prints.On a colour card of midnight black, ivory, champagne, millennial pink, rust, orange, slate grey and red, Ridhi dreamt up silhouettes that would be ideal bridal wear options.Ruffled asymmetric anarkalis vied for attention with multi-tiered layered lehengas. Capes came down the ramp edged with faux ostrich feathers, while more uber-glam creations floated in quick succession. For ensembles so grand, the fabric base had to be lush as Chanderi, pure silk, pashmina, satin, suede and tulle, merged to enhance the bridal wear quotient.Drama came in the form of black palazzos with an intriguing tasselled top.
Sukhavati by Vineet Kataria and Rahul Arya
Inspired by the land where nature blooms, where the Earth and heaven come together for a gentle story in the land of Buddha, the designing duo wove an apt collection. With superb handmade raw silk, tussar silk, cotton, along with the beauty of fragile Chanderi, the collection came alive on the ramp in its splendorous forms. Opening the show with an ochre khaki quilted maxi, the ensembles moved to a kimono style jacket and skirt with intricate crane motif. The checked sari with long-sleeved blouse, rust dress with appliquéd flowers and the boat neck maxi splashed with floral appliqués were fashion forward offerings. The front pleated kurta, striped pant suit, beach kaftan, rose embroidered skirt and cropped pleated blouse will surely add to next season’s favourites.The hand crafted aesthetics of the creations started with the complex French knots, intricate appliqués, zardosi sequin work, and some colourful hand block prints and then gently moved to hand embroidery with machine textures.The neo-Indian silhouettes worked around the favourites of the season like the trench coat, asymmetric jackets, contemporary kurtas, saris with redefined blouses and layered separates that have been the signature of the label.
Monaco from the Heart of Kashiby Amit Aggarwal
Taking his designing board further into sustainable couture, Amit worked with the traditional Banaras brocades and saris from around the country. He then brought in his expert techniques of industrial pleating; latticing and inserting recycled polymer strips. Not stopping at his signature detailing, Amit further added zardosi embroidery in dual metal and yarns, included hand pleated tape embellishments, along with thread work that was blended with unconventional industrial yarns.The result was an extraordinary line of gorgeous creations that made show stopping entries on the catwalk. Keeping the colour card rich there was amber, sapphire, ruby, jade and black diamond that glistened with the blinding radiance of gold and silver.It was drama of the ultimate kind with the opening creation – a silver corset and draped sari entry. What followed was a mind-boggling presentation of panelled gowns, moulded corsets, velvet coats over midi skirts, off-shoulder ensemble, scintillating red corset with an eye-catching drape and a gold gown with geometric strips. The sari gowns were unbelievable in their construction and the combination of gold, silver and jewel tones came together in perfect unison.
Chitravali by Gaurang
Using the frescos as hand-painted Kalamkari on Kanchipuram silk; Gaurang blended the beauty of these two traditional mediums. Opting for natural dyes obtained from the bark flower and root, the final result was a kaleidoscope of red from pomegranate seeds, yellow from harde, blue from indigo, black by blending iron and jaggery green by fusing indigo and mynobalan for the magnificent colour story.The prints recreated the fresco scenes along with images of birds, beasts and bejewelled animas. The Kalamkari technique was incorporated cleverly on the brightly coloured Kanchipuram silk brocades with the glittering golden borders whose richness was further enhanced by using the Korvai weaving technique ideal for festive wear.The blitz of luxurious saris with stunning gold borders and pallavs painted with the intricate Kalamkari images, were breath-taking in their beauty and made every woman in the audience want to own them.The richness of the brocades with their gorgeous weaves – some featuring the majestic lion motif on the borders – were works of art in fashion.
Nikita Mhaisalkar offered High-Pret Wear
Exploring the scope for Luxe Knitwear, the collection drew heavily from outerwear staples with a subtle touch of extravagance. The line with its high-octane creativity was an amalgamation of sweaters, cloaks, organza and woven pants, knitted sarees, coats and trenches with custom made flat knits and ribs, creating a mélange of abstract and amorphous shapes. The striped shimmer detailing gave the garments a visually stunning appeal. Sharply tailored separates in premium suiting, rich silks and sheer organza made the garments enticing and glamorous. When it came to choosing the colour palette, Nikita was partial to steel, slate and charcoal that were contrasted by the vibrant tangerine, which made the ensembles, look classic and artsy. Long, fluid, silhouettes were the highlight of the line. The addition of the trompe l’oeil print added texture to the lyrical, stylish line of clothes.
Mithila in Soho by Neha Agarwal
The clothes spoke of a raw and bold look in a range of contemporary evening wear inspired by Madhubani Art. Sporty aesthetics were beautifully combined with Indian traditions as a feisty look came alive on the ramp. The collection was a mix of sharp tailoring, mesmerizingly blended with conventional fits. Sheath dresses with predominant colourful Madhubani prints caused a sensation on the ramp. Showcasing diversity in their design aesthetics and overall versatility were a range of cropped tops, bell bottoms, tent dresses, palazzos, jumpsuits, skirts and shorts that were teamed with jackets that made the ensembles inventive yet commercial. Detailing such as ribbed collars, panels, plackets and hems along with embroidered prints and knits gave the perfect combination of style, glamour and energy.For fashion with an artistic palette, a range of stretch, suede and handloom matka silks were merged with studio knitted rayon and silk zari knits.
Project EVE by Rahul Mishra
Staying true to his roots, Rahul Mishra’s textiles –Chanderis, Maheshwaris, Banarasi – did all the fashionable talking when he showcased his fine motifs woven to bring back the heritage, culture of warp and weft. The light as air fabrics had a regal demeanour as chirping birds; kamal, genda and mogra along with hints of Mughal architectural inspirations were entwined into the weaves. The luxuriously woven fabrics for the lehengas, kurtas, dupattas and saris were a dream to behold.The embroidery was like a masterpiece on textiles that brought the beauty of nature on fabrics. While the collection was predominantly festive India, Rahul brought in two gowns to cater to the Western dresser. The swirling anarkalis, kurtas -some with backless silhouettes, the kirkita palazzos, Kamal jaallehengas and the beautifully scalloped dupattas revealed Rahul’s experiments with embellishments.The result was a majestic colourful festive explosion that started with yellow, purple and coral along with a large assortment of kaleidoscopic hues. The colour card also had pretty pastels that moved into festive hues of fuchsia, orange, red and then onto dramatic black and white.
Ritu Kumar unveil ‘Sweet Surrender’ line
Opening the show with a riot of floral printed cotton dresses and romper-corset the stage was set for wrap, will-power, printed, dress; ballerina tulle midi skirts over body suits, halter printed trapeze mini and an assortment of off-shoulder gypsy style blouses. Broderieanglais appeared for skirts or tiered midis, while the striped, tiered, layered, floor-kissing creations and the black net, frilled, tiered, mini skirt added to the lyrical flow of the show.Presenting a further melodious fashion symphony, she presented an asymmetric cold-shoulder midi with summer blossoms print, mini trapeze outfit, slinky blue leaf printed off-shoulder creation with side cascade and a sexy pale blue tulle full-flared midi skirt over a provocative white body suit. The mustard frilled one-shoulder midi with a striking white crochet cummerbund, the black ruffled will-power jumpsuit with white corset and the black/white foliage printed maxi were just perfect for surrendering to fashion’s latest trends. The shirtdresses were prominent on the ramp along with stylish asymmetric tops, some with an off-shoulder accent, while the cute trendy minis completed the look.
Urvashi Joneja’s ‘Concrete’’ collection
Varying aspects of progress inspired the prints and textures. The building blocks, staircases and wrecking of the environment were adequately highlighted through the garments. These prints and embellishments appeared on Urvashi’s feminine contemporary silhouettes that have always been the hallmark of the brand.The silhouettes ranged from off-shoulder tops, long jackets, asymmetrical peplum blouses, long flowing dresses and midis with plunging necklines and ruffle detailing. The outfits had 3D embellished flowers surfaced innovatively and vibrant prints depicted fun and modernity. The colour palette was playful and pleasant; it had shades of magenta, military green, teal, tangerine, Marsala and a hint of monochrome. Actor/Singer Sarah Jane Dias glided down the runway vivaciously in a floor-length printed gown with criss-cross-back straps and pocket detailing that looked strikingly free spirited and lively.
Sahil Aneja displayed ‘Restricted 2.0’
The designer presented a minimal, chic line influenced by street signs that were intelligently projected on the garments. The ensembles varied from classic suits to well-tailored outfits. Jackets, leather vests with metallic zipper detailing, over-coats and long shirts with cowls had slogans printed creatively. This complete package of creativity definitely upgraded the style quotient of this collection. Interesting fabrics such as flannel, leather, felt wool and knits were used to create variations with textures to show a different dimension. Charcoal black, smoke grey, maroon, olive and mint green, scarlet and violet created the perfect palette that blended instantly with the modernised theme and made it an instant success. The audacious silhouettes were an attempt to show the unconventional side of the generally worn mundane apparels. The designer’s vision was to bridge the gap and construct globally acknowledged attires that were impactful and identified with the masses.
INIFD presents fabulous collections by five fresh talents at 24th Gen Next opening show
Akshat Bansal – A traditional/contemporary blend
The inspiration was unconventional – the snow clad mountains and science of nature that was cleverly recreated in a black/white monochrome look. Crochet as well as tie-and-dye gave an androgynous depth to the clothes as ombré loose Bermudas, kurtas, shirts and churidars appeared in quick succession on the runway. The fabric choice was a mix of Chanderi with Italian crêpes that turned the traditional and modern textiles into contemporary western silhouettes with great ease.Striking pieces on the ramp were all in black and white with the tree motif appearing in strategic places for men’s and women’s wear. Kurtas were layered, trousers were fluid and ankle length, asymmetric tunics were teamed with cropped pants and the midi with a flowing coat were ideal for the coming season.
Deepak Pathak – Stylish study in techniques
‘Integument’ line was a stylish study in techniques like jacquard knitting and flock printing. Using a variety of fabrics – felt, wool blends, twill suiting and knitted tulle – the collection inspired by Bengali fishermen had clever drapes, twists, tucks and sharp tailoring. The clean, fuss-free silhouettes were highlighted only by black and grey but were further embellished with doodled artworks. Long sleeved maxis moulded the body with sashes, while the sensuous shapes added to the feminine appeal of the ensembles. Knits made a great impact on the ramp as black layered tunic/pant and gilet caught the eye. The asymmetric knit dress, grey midi with coat, palazzos with trench coat and the wrap knitted maxi could move with great ease from dawn to dusk.
Sumiran Kabir Sharma – Fierce fluid fashion
SumiranKabir Sharma’s ‘Anaam’ label; was inspired by ‘Sonagachi’ (Kolkata’s Red Light District). It was a look that evoked visions of a rampaging warriors’ army in flowing uniforms that had an arresting appeal. Here was a strong, fierce, nameless, ageless, genderless, line of clothing that could move seamlessly from HIS to HER wardrobe. Using a mix of ingenious draping and pattern making techniques that ensured zero fabric wastage, the wool and wool blends were turned into black toga like maxis, unstructured midis and shawl covers.Men’s and women’s wear could be interchanged effortlessly as black and grey appeared for capes, wrap skirts, tunics, a combo of cape and jacket, draped hem kaftans and a striking maxi with a trail and shoulder drape. The quirky hats added to the look of the ensembles giving them an almost surreal appearance.
Shenali Sema and Rinzin Lama – Oriental Visions
The designing duo presented interesting embroidery techniques coupled with clever fabric manipulation that brought to the forefront the nostalgic Japanese print making art. Using treadle embroidered, single stitch technique, along with cutwork and heat-set micro pleating, the result was a feminine look. In addition, it was the double softened, washed, grainy, polyester, georgette, embellished with hand embroidered knotting technique on cotton mesh that added pizazz to the garments. Pastel shades of beige and watery blue had delicate floral prints; while the silhouettes were relaxed and feminine with maxis, wrap slit midis and covers.Pretty as a picture were the lovely soft covers, maxis with wide-sleeved jackets, long sleeved smocks, drop-waist skirts or dresses and the intriguing long or short striped pullovers that made a great impact on the catwalk.
Saaksha Parekh and KinnariKamat – Understated Glamour
The designers presented ‘Amourage’, which was a symphony in chiffon and Chanderi that merged beautifully with metal woven sheets and was highlighted with thread and cut work. Inspired by the life of Tomoe Gozen the 12th century warrior woman whose feminine Samurai attitude was a blend of grit, tenderness and grace along with temerity, the rigid stripes over dazzling creations were the designing pair’s apt offering. Swirls of feminine navy sheers were dappled with delicate floral blossoms for a feminine maxi. The deep red tiered frilled maxi with gold embroidered gilet, pleated bell sleeved maxi and cover, striped jackets, black maxi with skirt with beaded tasseled blouse, the shimmering horizontal striped skirt with printed cover or the printed layered skirt with cropped blouse were superb additions in the presentation.