Apparel Sourcing – Shawls & Scarves Paris Huge visitors turnout enrich a splendid exhibition
15,075 visitors thronged the aisles at the “Fairyland for Fashion,” which grouped Messe Frankfurt France’s trade shows dedicated to the fashion industry at one venue. With over 80 per cent of visitors coming from outside France, these shows remain the all-important event for the global fashion industries.
There are no longer regional blocks for each continent that predominate as there used to be. A variation in visitor numbers was observed, according to country to different degrees, however not very noteworthy overall except in the case of France, whose numbers continue to grow with a plus of 11 per cent. Further good results were posted for Italy +5 per cent, Russia +7 per cent, Switzerland +16 per cent, India +17 per cent, South Korea +15 per cent, the Lebanon +14 per cent, Canada +7 per cent, Argentina +8 per cent, Colombia +5 per cent, Tunisia +11 per cent, Mauritius +8 per cent.
In a generally gloomy economic climate, buyers and exhibitors at the show for sourcing for clothing production were able to do good business. This year, 17 countries were represented by 690 exhibitors. “The low consumption figures for clothing in Europe made a number of exhibitors fear that it would be a lackluster exhibition. All in all, this apprehension was swept away fast. Visitors attending the show, number one in Europe for sourcing for clothing production and fashion accessories, all came with tasks to complete here and so needed to do business,” explained Michael Scherpe, President of Messe Frankfurt France.
This was confirmed by Bart De Smet, the Belgian agent for the House of Saki, a Swedish clothing manufacturer of private-label outerwear, ”Given the state-of-the economy, I was expecting a quieter show, but I saw nothing but fashion brands that wanted to work and in particular all our regular French, German and Belgian clients. This show turned out to be a pleasant surprise.”
Visitors who simply came to get a sense of the current trends or ideas for a project were rare. So there was less “interference” to hinder negotiations between buyers and exhibitors and this resulted in them being more successful. “Apparel Sourcing is an excellent platform for making contact with European fashion brands. The Italians and Spanish certainly appreciated what we offered. The outlook for future results is good. We did business with some niche brands, which is surprising,” said Manish Rohilla, the Marketing Director at Vardhman, a major Indo-Japanese firm well-known for its collections of classic shirts.
The same reaction was found at Fabric Garment Enterprise, a Chinese contractor for made-to-measure. Sumei Zhang, who was in charge of the stand says, ”It’s the third time we’ve attended and each time we do plenty of business. This session was very steady and satisfying and we will be leaving with some projects for collaboration with European and American firms that are already well underway but also some with Hong Kong!”
Principals also spent a lot of time in the national pavilions, like those of Pakistan, Bangladesh or Vietnam. In particular, Hong Kong stirred a lot of interest, thanks to its long history of connections with Western brands, which makes some processes easier. Vietnam and Sri Lanka were also able to make the most of the situation, thanks to the interest aroused by favourable business prospects promoted by their governments.
However, meeting customer requirements is not the only task for principals and making discoveries is another. Taking the example of Miao embroideries from Shenzen Oriental Secret, an embroidery company for fashion accessories that takes advantage of traditional skills from inland China, such as the embroidered kimono for a price of 19,000 euro. “We’re thrilled. Our embroideries for accessories were very successful with well-known fashion brands, whereas the traditional embroidery caught the attention of designers, an audience that we didn’t attract before,” said the Managing Director Sheng Ling.
The Services powered by Mouvtex, the new offer at Apparel Sourcing Paris, assembled a dozen firms that provide solutions for locating sourcing, international payments, legal guidance, assistance in prototyping, management consulting. It certainly found its audience while attracting a lot of interest thanks to workshops held in parallel.
From Workshop to Shop: Sustainability & Style, in its dramatic setting, could not be missed. Organised by the CCIPT-Tex (Sub-Council for the Chinese textile industry), the exhibition showed that Chinese ready-to-wear is certainly the equal of Western collections in terms of style but also when it comes to sustainable development.13 brands from clothing manufacturers exhibiting at the show presented a large range of menswear, womenwear and children’s wear and merited two catwalk shows. Yan Yan, Deputy Director of the China Textile Information Center, explained during a lecture how sustainable development is becoming established in the clothing and textile industry, and especially in the long range.
The segment for complementary products for clothing, accessories remained very appealing, in particular with regard to belts, hats and bags. The show for textile accessories for the upper body, Shawls & Scarves, was no exception to the rule. It was good business for pashminas and cashmere from China or Nepal and linen ranges from India. One of the features of this 43rd edition of Fairyland for Fashion was the sizeable attendance at all the lectures. One of Apparel Sourcing’s strong points. The lecture about the Chinese industry and that from the Deutsche Institute fürTextil und Faserforschung (the German Institute for textile and fibre research) on the future of micro-manufacturers left a lasting impression. The Agora, located not far from ‘The Dressing’, a showcase for exhibitors’ best creations, also hosted lectures on the season’s trends and colours. The clothing expertise from Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Vietnam and Cambodia, namely with the designer Natacha Van, was put on show at the ever-popular catwalk shows. Apparel Sourcing Paris together with Shawls & Scarves undeniably has established itself, year-on-year, as the must-attend meeting place for players in the global industry for clothing and fashion accessories.
Avantex Great diversity contributes to another brilliant showing
The vanguard of fashion answered the call
This year, 40 exhibitors came from nine different countries for Avantex Paris, the bi-annual event for the creative and technical source of tomorrow’s fashion industry. On the occasion of its 7th session, the show assembled around forty prominent firms and organisations from eight countries that design, make and distribute technological products and solutions for fashion with high added value.
“Avantex Paris is not just a meeting place for business. It is a real hub for trading ideas that focus on research, investigation and marketing of solutions to address the challenges facing the clothing industry, both today and tomorrow. Incidentally, I am delighted with the European response to the call from the exhibition, which was the first to combine fashion and technology in the textile industry, regarding major issues such as durability, sustainability, traceability and all expectations of the active consumer in the digital era” states Michael Scherpe, President of Messe Frankfurt France.
The European driver for innovation in the fashion sectors
Once again, what was conspicuous at Avantex Paris was the great variety of visitors, which lent it all a network-like character, something that is no hindrance to business. From straight forward prime contractors or the heads of fashion and luxury brands through to consultants, research engineers and even investors eagerly awaiting the trends compiled by Avantex Paris, which is firmly established as a pioneer for these new demands for the extended textile and fashion industries. Cléa Pola, the Founder of the slow-fashion and eco-friendly producer Coco & Rico, which is 100 per cent local, was in agreement: “I’m mega happy, there was no-one but true professionals, not merely curious onlookers but many potential customers. The synergy among exhibitors is excellent; they may become future partners. We expanded our portfolio of real customers from abroad, in particular from Asia. Thanks to Avantex, we will be going to London next month!”
“We saw huge numbers of high-calibre visitors,” confirmed Magnus Hellström, Marketing and Business Director at Coloreel, demonstrating this new colouring unit for embroidery machines. “We are delighted; we met our target group, distributors. Certain came from China, Japan, Taiwan and India but also from Eastern Europe, which seems to be the trend at the moment.”
Success was also encountered by other start-up businesses who came to promote their expertise, such as the French firm Induo with their water-repellent fabric which is of interest to the luxury sector, or the Belgian firm Retviews with their algorithms for market surveys in real-time. New types of clothing distribution, very close to consumer wishes, were unveiled, in particular by the European Centre for Innovative Textiles and its Future Apparel Experience by CETI, a place for encouraging experiments with IoT tools. Great work has also been done in this area by Tô& Guy, a French firm that combines co-design, printing and augmented reality to achieve greater customisation. CETI also reported considerable demand at its stand for alternative solutions for leather.
Avantex Paris included a huge variety of technical materials invented by South Korean, Chinese and Taiwanese manufacturers, which are always very popular wellmainly with buyers for outdoor and sports brands. In this way, the trade show presents ideas and materials to professionals of all kinds in order to offer a new and original perspective for the future. For instance, with the competition for advanced educational institutions, taking as an example the established collaboration with the ESMOD College of Fashion, whose students have developed technical textiles from the TECHTERA cluster in Lyon.
A first attendance by the Finnish Alvar Aalto University, where expertise developed in the associated chemistry and design schools sparked everyone’s curiosity, as demonstrated by Pirjo Kääriäine, professor and head of the CHEMARTS programme, ”We held a number of interesting discussions with European and Asian companies about future collaboration. We don’t sell finished products but we can provide support in creating new materials. Overall, we made a large number of contacts, who are concerned with the future of recycling and environmental responsibility in fashion.”
A climate conducive to textile R&D and its applications in industry, valued highly by Messe Frankfurt France, once again has rewarded start-up companies that are actively involved in changing in the sector. The third Avantex Fashion Pitch: The competition between five solutions, corresponding to the segments at the exhibition, allowed the public to vote using the WiRATE platform.
– The first prize at this September’s session went to a young American start-up called Nineteenth Amendment, which intends to revolutionise the retail business for fashion products. A package of tools and services for fashion designers and companies, aiming to simplify development of garments, from design to sales by way of production. The firm will benefit from individual guidance, a presentation at Avantex Paris next February and support from WiRATE and Moovjee in furthering their goals, while CETI will provide advice.
– Special mention for three other competition entrants: Wonda Kammer and his men’s shirts manufactured in Ghana, who finished, very close behind, in second place, then Gorfoo, a brand for clothing, accessories and shoes made of plantbased materials, and lastly the collection of precise curves from Simone Simon. All three will have an outfit exhibited at the next show in addition to coaching sessions provided by Hall Couture.
As every year, the agora was the epicentre for prolonged debates and discussions focusing on textiles and fashion markets. Numerous were the experts at these round tables, which were dedicated to a myriad of topics: Ecology, functionality, social networks, the role of influencers, new manufacturing processes or major shifts in distribution channels etc. A wide array of subjects reflecting the changes that the fashion and clothing industry is undergoing was presented. The catwalk shows staged by the Amsterdam Institute of Fashion and Tô& Guy provided a brilliant example.
All of these challenges and concrete responses make Avantex Paris a forwardlooking event in its own right among the cluster of Messe Frankfurt France trade shows, where sustainable development and social and environmental responsibility become established.
A lavish world for sourcing textiles created by Texworld
Texworld Paris is a trade fair that is open to all fashion brands, major luxury companies and large international operators for ready-to-wear and, last but not least, young designers. Young fashion designers know they can find willing listeners among the exhibitors at Texworld Paris. It attracted some high-calibre professionals who thronged the aisles with the intention of accomplishing things and reaching agreements. With 1,058 visitors from 27 countries, the offer at Texworld (and at Texworld Denim), the trade fair for fabrics, materials, components and trimmings for fashion, has grown significantly.
“We’re delighted with the energy and enthusiasm evident at this season’s show – with brisk business at Elite, an encouraging start for the silk segment and attendance by regular visitors despite some problems with travel and a new international exhibition calendar, which affect Asia in particular. The major textile shows in Shanghai have been put back to the end of September. The main concern was that there would be a decline in visitors from Asia but that was not the case at all. Paris as a fashion venue retains that certain something that is its drawing point,” explained Michael Scherpe, President of Messe Frankfurt France.
At the heart of Fairyland for Fashion, Texworld Paris created a lavish world for sourcing textiles in all their forms. A significant event judging by the diversity of its exhibitors, who came from 27 countries, and of their products that were classed according to fibre family (silk, wool, etc.) or expertise (lace, jacquard etc.) and interspersed with national pavilions: Bangladesh, South Korea, Taiwan and Thailand. The large textile operator Lenzing gathered the manufacturers using their fibres in their pavilions, a kind of platform for their major customers.
A silk segment, which was set up on account of the broad variety of techniques and developments for natural silk, was able to attract a strong showing of American and European buyers on the lookout for superior fabrics. The Director of Haujia Silk, Jack Lee, remarked, ”This segment is situated ideally at the intersection between several ranges. It’s very practical for buyers as they lose no time in trying to find it.”
There was great diversity also where visitors are concerned: Heads of materials purchasing for fashion brands, from major luxury chains, up-and-coming or wellmainly known independent designers, for workwear but also for the automotive or interiors branch. The occasional retailer too, Americans, Russians, British, Spanish, those from the Middle East and the French were often mentioned, but those from Asia caused some surprise by coming to Paris and sometimes placing orders with their neighbours. “We love the show – it has always been a pleasant few days for us. Above all, it is a place to meet our regular customers, who are international. Every new customer is always a bonus for us and at this show we even conducted business with our fellow countrymen here in Paris,” said Eddy Tang, Founder and Director of Hanya Apparel Company, a Hong Kong weaver specialising in children’s wear that won the Best Stand Display at this show.
Exhibitors emphasised the calibre and targeting of totally professional visitors during this 43rd Texworld Paris show. Onlookers, those who were curious or just dabbling were conspicuous by their absence, allowing the exhibitors to concentrate on business. “Visitors to Texworld are really of a high standard, at the forefront of the market and above all extremely professional,” said Ahmet Feridun Altinöz, co- Founder of Karinca Tekstil.
As for the major players in the clothing sector, they counted on the wealth of additional services offered by exhibitors in the Elite segment. The space met with resounding success on the part of European buyers in particular. Some exhibitors found themselves working up until almost the last minute, such as Zaber&Zubair from Bangladesh or Kaskas from Lebanon. “The show went far beyond our expectations,” said Kevin Yu, Director at Artex Textiles, a specialist for breathable and functional fabrics, in summing up.
Where exhibitors were concerned, it was the business aspect that satisfied the weaving firms that attend the show regularly, for example Johnny Chu, Founder of the Taiwan textile company Chutex and a regular at textile trade fairs for 38 years. “We are forging commercial ties here that are intended to be long-term. And it is very noticeable that, despite a depressed economy, Texworld Paris remains an excellent business venue. A show that is not a shop but like a home, a place where we find the people we trust.”
All in all, there were fifty speakers during these four days and the various spaces provided to hold the talks recorded high attendance on each occasion. Where Texworld is concerned, apart from the lectures on trends and colours that were a great hit, attention concentrated on the new silk routes, future distribution, addressed in two ways (new digital technologies and new business models) thanks to a bevy of experts and leading players in the industry, and the overview of Bangladesh’s textile industry.
The prize winners from the Dinan Festival, of which Messe Frankfurt France is a partner, created the show on the podium; ESMOD presented imaginative outfits from its students and haute couture created a buzz in the crowd with a catwalk show from Eymeric François. Trade visitors were able to take advantage of comprehensive information, which is essential to their business, during the lectures on textile sourcing and also in the presentations by the artistic Directors of the trends for autumn/winter 19/20, which were in the spotlight at the trends forums.
Texworld Denim Paris lively as ever
With 1058 exhibitors at Texworld Denim and Texworld Paris, the show dedicated to denim benefited from a steady stream of enthusiastic and attentive visitors. A successful outcome that is in line with the enduring demand for denim that is not tied to any particular season.
“I have a feeling that Texworld Denim has just been taken to a whole new level. Although outside the segment’s traditional seasons, our show was very successful where visitor numbers and business were concerned. It appears that some prime contractors are in constant need of denim products or that they want to complete their collections with denim. We therefore have plenty of potential to exploit in this area, as demonstrated at our Fairyland for Fashion shows, which I am obviously glad about,” said Michael Scherpe, President of Messe Frankfurt France.
Against a backdrop in faded blue, Texworld Denim brought together weavers and denim manufacturers, from major countries such as China, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Turkey and India, but also from Canada. Never out of fashion, denim manifested itself in all its forms, with some suppliers making appreciable efforts in terms of materials, greener manufacturing processes, and all while observing sustainable social standards. The Pakistani exhibitor Master Textile Mills, for instance, prided itself on the environmental friendliness of its entire production chain, from the yarn to the trousers and jackets.
Texworld Denim remains firmly connected to its subject and the collections of fabrics or finished products on display were taken up by buyers, either as is, for replenishments or capsule collections, or as an excellent addition for the fashion collections that are in preparation. It is a characteristic running slightly against current practice but in the end, one that pays off. Some major American denim labels were also spotted at the stands. Exhibitors fully understood this and the great majority of participants at this 3rd session had attended the show on previous occasions. The major Chinese operator Foison Apparel describes their attendance in September as “the best”, as did the weavers Zhejiang Sansen Textile and their Commercial Director, Xiaodan Wu, who also added that the show was “excellent with serious, specialist visitors.”
Located at the intersection between Texworld and Apparel Sourcing, Texworld Denim Paris attracted a professional audience and thus benefited from visits by fabric buyers intrigued by this offer of complementary products. The trends forum and the corresponding catwalk show completed this sense of general satisfaction by presenting the very best in skills and manufacturing capabilities from exhibitors. Texworld Denim Paris is in the process of introducing a different way of looking at denim, a product that can be relied on anywhere, always and for many years.