A very creative energy and the overall quality of proposals meet the favour of the best national and international buyers at Pitti Immagine Uomo n. 92: Foreign buyers confirmed the excellent results of last June, while Italy has recorded a little drop.The most important international and Italian buyers have chosen once again Pitti Uomo as a global reference point for lifestyle and scouting in menswear, confirming the importance of the selection and segmentation criteria adopted by Pitti Immagine marketing team, that aimed to present the more interesting news – in trends and products – from the best Italian and international companies that research and innovate in style and materials. The undisputed prestige of design and made in Italy, the completeness of the offer, the variety of the collections, the lively design and presentations, the different international partnerships (e.g. with the Guest Nation Australia, the Japan Fashion Week, Liberty Fairs..) and the special events (the exhibition at Palazzo Pitti, the JW Anderson and Off White shows, the presentations by the Italian designers Federico Curradi and Alanui …) did the rest.
The list of attending buyers included the major departments and speciality stores, boutiques and concept stores, high-end chains, and the highest quality e-commerces. That is why we collected very positive feedbacks among the booths at the Fortezza and on all social networks. In terms of figures, more than 19,000 buyers were registered a few hours before the end of the show, with foreign countries confirming the levels of last June and with a drop of Italian buyers between 8 and 9 per cent (let’s remember that the number of buyers at Pitti Uomo 90, in June 2016, was the absolute record of the last ten years!). A total number of more than 30,000 visitors is expected.
This is the ranking of attendance: Germany at the top followed by Japan, Spain, United Kingdom, The Netherlands, China, France, Switzerland, Turkey, USA, Korea, Belgium, Austria, Portugal, Russia, Sweden, Greece, Denmark, Poland, Canada.
There was a careful redistribution of the spaces, an expansion of sites representing today’s most contemporary experimental menswear styles and investment in venues that look toward the future of fashion. There’s the evolution of the makers section, which features brands from all around the world, as for the first time the MAKE venue was staged at the Sala della Ronda. There were unisex collections and the brashness of luxury underground brands.
Unconventionaldoubled its exhibition area, extending to both of the Archivi locations. What’s more, the Touch! venue, with its forward-looking styles and leading names in cutting-edge design, moved to the Medici Pavilion, a strategic location on the experimental itinerary. Futuro Maschile, the concept lab of the most forward-thinking expressions of menswear, also grew, adding the Arena Strozzi space to its location at the Sala delle Nazioni as well as a broad focus on the world’s new talents. At the heart of Pitti Uomo there is the excellence of the new classic brands and the labels that define modern sportswear. And all of this is under the unique art direction of Pitti Immagine.
The extraordinary contribution of MISE and the ICE AGENCY
This edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo is possible thanks to the contribution of the Ministry for Economic Development and the Italian Trade Agency as part of the 2015-2017. Three Year Plan organised by the Ministry for Economic Development to support Italian trade fairs and Made in Italy manufacturing. This contribution is dedicated to developing hospitality, media relations and advertising activities.
Boom, Pitti Blooms the theme of the summer fairs
The theme of the 2017 summer trade fairs was vital energy: Macroscopic and gently domineering flowers invade the Fortezza, raining down on everything and blossoming into artistic creations and digital icons, infecting the atmosphere with a spirit that helps promote a flourishing of new ideas. The concept, layout and creative direction of BOOM, PITTI BLOOMS is the work of lifestyler Sergio Colantuoni. From June 13-19, on the first floor of the La Rinascente department store in Milan, a special Pitti Uomo pop-up store presented for the first time to showcase the limited edition BOOM, PITTI BLOOMS, a capsule collection of accessories and staple items redesigned in an original guise. Moreover, BOOM, PITTI BLOOMS were introduced with a whimsical touch by the new digital art project accompanying the fair’s advertising campaign. The Art + Vibes production is the work of director Valentina Be, Executive Producer Max Brun and sound designer Lorenzo Confetta.
Pitti Immagine Loves Mini. Mini Moves Pitti Immagine
Passion, innovation, creative research. The creative partnership between Pitti Immagine and MINI expresses the shared values and objectives between these two entities that are always linked to a contemporary lifestyle. The partnership between these two players continued at Pitti Uomo 92 with a series of projects for 2017 focusing on the most up-to-date lifestyle trends and street culture. At this edition of Pitti Uomo MINI presented the new Capsule Collection BEYOND NATIVE, a limited edition realised in collaboration with five up-and-coming international designers.
Special events and guests at this edition:
Centro Di Firenze Per La Moda Italiana gala evening
The Centro Di Firenze Per La Moda Italiana presented the Pitti Immagine Uomo 92 event on June 12 in the Palazzo Pitti/Boboli Gardens complex. The evening included a gala dinner and an event open to the entire city of Florence.
“The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion” at Palazzo Pitti
On Tuesday June 13, “Il Museo Effimero della Moda” (The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion), produced by the Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery with the Gallerie degli Uffizi and the Palais Galliera was inaugurated at Palazzo Pitti. Curated by Olivier Saillard in collaboration with Caterina Chiarelli, the exhibition, which is open until October 22, is the second edition of a three-year programme promoted by the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana and the Gallerie degli Uffizi. Sponsored by the city of Florence, the event involved a temporary revolution of the space in preparation for the new Museum of Fashion.
JW Anderson is the Special Guest
JW Anderson has become an internationally recognised fashion brand thanks to the creativity and eclecticism of Northern Ireland designer Jonathan Anderson and his collections that are unique for the quality of the manufacturing and the reinterpretation of today’s youth culture and art scene. On the evening of June 14,at Villa La Pietra, JW Anderson exhibited for the first time in Italy, showing his SS18 men’s collection.
Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh™, Special Guest
A mixture of fashion and streetwear, Virgil Abloh has transformed his lifestyle into a successful brand, leading Off-White to full stylistic maturity without losing his initial capacity to shock and surprise. On June 15, OFF-WHITE c/o VIRGIL ABLOH™ presented the SS18 menswear collection together with a selection of the women’s pre-collection.
Christian Louboutin, Special Event
Christian Louboutin, an icon in the world of luxury footwear, has chosen Florence to launch a new project. This special event – in Piazza Santa Maria Novella on June 13 – is aimed not only at the fashion community but the entire city of Florence.
Hugo, Special Event
HUGO, the most fashion-forward Hugo Boss line, has chosen Pitti Uomo and Florence as its exclusive stage. On June 13, at the Manifattura Tabacchi, the Hugo SS18 collection was presented with a special fashion show combining menswear and womenswear releases.
Federico Curradi, Special Event
Federico Curradi returned to Pitti Uomo to present, with a special event on June 14, at the Museo Bardini, the premiere of the SS18 menswear collection of the brand that carries his name. On stage there was a romantic warrior who encompassed various souls of Florence, including craftsmanship and calcio storico.
Alanui, Special Event
Alanui, the nomad-chic style project launched by Nicolò and Carlotta Oddi, celebrated an important premiere at Pitti Uomo. Their work is the result of a globetrotting journey and elements from everyday life. Alanui realised a special site-specific installation on June 15 in the suggestive setting of the Tepidarium del Roster.
Who Is On Next?
For June 2017 Pitti Immagine, in collaboration with Pitti Immagine Uomo, Alta Roma and L’Uomo Vogue, presented the ninth edition of “Who Is On Next? Uomo,” the competition dedicated to finding new talents in menswear. The finalists were BAD DEAL, Magliano, MATTEOLAMANDINI, milano140, OMAR, SELFMADE by Gianfranco Villegas.
Secret Florence: The special project for the Florentine Summer sponsored by City of Florence
Secret Florence, the Estate Fiorentina special project launched in 2016 with the support of the city of Florence and Pitti Immagine, once again offered an innovative and incomparable artistic experience to an international audience interested in the contrasts between contemporary languages in art and the city’s extraordinary historical-architectural heritage. From June 10 to 16 there were series of performances, events and installations.
Two projects with a focus on new talents from Australia and Japan
Guest Nation Australia: A project in collaboration with The Woolmark Company
The most promising names on the Australian fashion scene was the center stage at the Guest Nation project presented by the Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery and The Woolmark Company. Eight young Australian designers were selected in conjunction with the Australian Fashion Chamber to present their collections at the Fortezza at the Spazio Carra venue (Padiglione Centrale – Lower Level). It was th first time that a project from this entity has involved Australian designers at an international fashion event. The designers are Chris Ran Lin, Commas, Double Rainbouu, Exinfinitas, Sener Besim, Strateas.Carlucci, P.E Nation and Ten Pieces.
The catwalk show by YOSHIO KUBO, one of the new talents on Japanese scene
The collaboration continues between Pitti Immagine and the Japan Fashion Week Organisation, a two-year partnership that focuses on the most promising talents on the Japanese fashion scene. After Sulvam, the Designer Yoshio Kubo will present his distinctive style with a fashion show on June 15.
The Tokyo Fashion Award brings its six finalists to the Fortezza, inside Unconventional
This is the first installment in a series of collaborations. Thanks to the agreement stipulated between Pitti Immagine and Tokyo Fashion Award, the collections of six up-and-coming Japanese brands (Bed J.W. Ford, Chika Kisada, Doublet, Roggykei, Taakk, Yohei Ohno), which were selected by a prestigious jury, were on view in the Fortezza, at the Archivi, with a special corner inside Unconventional.
Hunting World presents its first full ready-to-wear collection
For the first time in its 50-year history, Hunting World, the exclusive American accessories brand, premiered a ready-to-wear collection that combines outdoor style with urban sophistication. Made entirely in Italy, the collection was presented with a fashion show at the Stazione Leopolda on June 14.
The new features at the Fortezza da Basso:
Futuro Maschile at the Sala Delle Nazioni and the Arena Strozzi
Concept labs aimed at the most advanced expressions of contemporary-classic menswear, Futuro Maschile has always been one of Pitti Uomo’s most prestigious venues. Starting with this edition, the Sala delle Nazioni location was joined by the Arena Strozzi space, an area dedicated to welcoming hyper-select collections with an experimental sportswear soul. This sophisticated offering is open to the likes of Big Uncle, Bonastre, Emanuele Bicocchi, Hunting World, Ikiji, Jas MB London, Kenneth Field, Mey Story, Mismo, Pezzol, RM Williams, Robinson Les Bains, Solovière, Sunspel. The Sala delle Nazioni,meanwhile, featured the following: Alden New England, Esemplare, Fortela, Linda Farrow, Louis Leeman, Myths, Orlebar Brown, Pence, Pierre Louis Mascia, Private White VC, Stutterheim, The Gigi.
Touch! Moves to the Medici Pavilion, a strategic location on the fair itinerary
Touch!, the section that expresses the eclectic spirit of the contemporary man’s wardrobe with an experimental and international approach, is present for the first time at the Medici Pavilion. Situated at the entrance to the fair, it creates a new line of continuity with spaces such as L’Altro Uomo and Unconventional. This is the perfect stage for the most visionary and cutting-edge styles. Brands featured include 1 ST Pat-Rn, Bad Deal, Barena, Béton Ciré, Buttero, Capsul, Captain Santors, Castañer, Danilo Paura, Danton, De Bonne Facture, Del Toro, Diemme, Grenson, Harris Wharf London, Ioweyou, Jimi Roos, Knitbrary, LF Lidfort, Merz B. Schwanen, Nanamica, Oak Street Bootmakers, Okun, Riccardo Comi, SE’ by Icho Nobutsugu, Seil Marschall, Snow Peak, Super by Retrosuperfuture®, SuperDuper Hats, Timex Archive, Traditional Weather Wear, Timo Trunks, Troubadour Goods, Weberhodelfeder, Yuketen.
Unconventionaldoubles up at the Archivi and looks toward athleisure
Unconventional, the exhibition project that presents luxury underground styles doubles its exhibition space and broadens its horizons with an eye on athleisure. At the two sites of the Archivi, there are international and exclusive collections present with personality for a hyper-contemporary gender-neutral wardrobe, representing an urban tribe accustomed to self-expression outside of traditional conventions. Names include: Artselab, Backlash, BB Triangular by Bruno Bordese, Cutuli Cult, Domrebel Montreal, Goetze, Goti, Hannes Roether, Homme Van Lab, Ienki Ienki, Indice Studio, Mauna Kea, Move Officine del Cappello, Naomi Goodsir Parfums, Nostrasantissima, Omar, Poliquant, Pronounce, Room101, Rooms by Lost & Found Ria Dunn, Sartorial Monk, Self Made by Gianfranco Villegas, The Last Conspiracy, Unum, Volga Volga, Wedù by Coreon Du, WXY. And Unconventionalwill also host the special project realised in collaboration with the Tokyo Fashion Award that shined the spotlight on 6 talented Japanese designers.
The Pop Up Stores, a combination of lifestyle and crossover proposals
The Pop Up Stores spaces were dedicated to men’s lifestyle products: Eyewear, shoes, bags and travel accessories as well as design products. The selection features the most up-to-date and dynamic labels. Brands featured: Alice Made This, Beaugrand, Begum Khan, Ettinger, Gladstone London, HNDSM, Kuska, John Chapman, Manipuri, My Style Bags, P.Le Moult, Peninsula Swimwear, Top Pocket Rocket. There is also the special participation of AFAR, a collection of bags and accessories produced in Ethiopia with an environmentally sustainable heart that bears the indelible mark of their homeland.
OPEN, the new generation that goes beyond the concept of gender
OPEN offered a sophisticated approach. This project was dedicated to the latest generation of collections that overcome the menswear/womenswear distinction, a segment gaining in popularity on the international market. This section offered a unisex selection of experimental collections and accessories. Edited to dictate a specific stylistic direction, OPEN brought a minimalist touch to the Rondino venue. Brands included: An An Bloom, Ancient Greek Sandals, Emyun, EoE Glasses, Le Mont Saint Michel, Le.Gnauhc, Maison Jejia, Maison Marcy, Marvielab, Masters of Casual, Opaline, Period Features, Rumisu, WannaMariaFiori.
I PLAYrelaunches the definition of sportswear
I PLAY, the Cavaniglia Pavilion project created to show the mentality that pushed the envelope defining sportswear, consolidates its international DNA. This crossover style creatively infuses urban life with authentic high-tech sportswear. Featured brands included: Asics Tiger, Beams, Champion Reverse Weave, Eastpak, Ennerre, Gymphlex, Herschel Supply Co., Lavenham, Le Slip français, Lyle & Scott, Makia, New Balance, Nixon, Rains, Rivieras, Rosasen, Sun68, Tretorn.
The Padiglione Centrale, the heart of the fair
The Padiglione Centrale hosts the evolution of menswear and its offshoots. Boasting a varied offering that includes the Pop Up Stores, the Lower Level displays contemporary classic sartorial collections, while the Upper Level features new classic names and their fine quality garments. The idea is to interpret a man’s wardrobe in a new way: Incredibly refined and high-end. Finally, on the Ground Floor, brand collections mingle freely with the other offerings at Pitti Uomo. Brands include: Acate, Boglioli, Brunello Cucinelli, Cartujano, Casa Fagliano, Circolo 1901, D’Avenza, Danolis, Doucal’s, Ernesto, Felisi, Finamore 1925 Napoli, Ghurka, Gianfranco Bommezzadri, Herno, I29, J.W. Brine, L.B.M 1911, Lardini, Lodenfrey München 1842, Manuel Ritz, Massimo Alba, Paoloni, Premiata, Pringle of Scotland, PT Pantaloni Torino, Re-Hash, Roda, Roy Roger’s, Sealup, Stefano Ricci, Tagliatore.
L’ALTRO UOMO, the borderland of avant-garde style
Despite a new layout the spirit of L’Altro Uomo remains unchanged. The space lies at the heart of avant-garde style. Inside a set designed by Andrea Caputo Studio, it will showcase a series of clothing and accessory collections that reflect a creativity capable of anticipating changes in taste. Featured brands include: Atalasport, Biel-Lo, Bleu De Chaffe, Cellardoor, Cohérence, Gear3, Gitman Bros. Est 1978, Haver Sack, Italia Independent, Labo.Art, Malibu Sandals, Matsuda Eyewear, Medwinds, Nine Lives, Oliver Spencer, Onitsuka Tiger, Paul Memoir, Rocco P., The.Nim, Toot, True Tribe, Ts(s), Universal Works, Wemoto Clothing, White Sand, Ymc.
EYE POP, the frontier between fashion and the world of eyewear
Eye Pop is the area dedicated to eyewear that Pitti Immagine has created in collaboration with MIDO, the leading international trade fair for the eyewear industry. On the Ground Floor of the Padiglione Centrale, Eye Pop explores the connection between eyewear and fashion in terms of quality and design. It is aimed not only at the best concept stores, but also companies seeking new creative synergies. Brands featured: //Delirious, Clan, David Marc, Rewop Milano, Spektre Sunglasses.
My Factory at the Lyceum: 2.0 youth cultures
For new expressions of urban culture as they relate to technology, music, art and design, My Factory was an extraordinary platform for valorizing some of the most dynamic creative laboratories in the urban and sportswear segments. My Factory is situated inside the Lyceum 8 and the venue was designed by Oliviero Baldini. Participating brands include: #Ladc, Abarca Shoes, Amplified Clothing, Arrels Barcelona, Art Of Scribble, Bricktown World, Dbsw, Dolly Noire, Eevye, Happy Socks, Hype, If Bags, Mrkt, Native, Oldies, Parafina, Polonio, Quatre Cent Quinze, Safe Milano, Tee Library, Waste Studio, Wize & Ope.
Around the city during Pitti Uomo
Loretta Caponi celebrated 50 years with a virtual catwalk show in the Sala d’Arme of Palazzo Vecchio The art of embroidery and high fashion lingerie, the elegance of household linen and the elegance of dressing-gowns and pajamas for him, the interior decor for villas and yachts. With an event on the evening of June 15, the universe of Loretta Caponi revealed in the Sala d’Arme of Palazzo Vecchio. This virtual runway show recounted the strength and artisanal grace of a brand that is both Florentine and international and that celebrated 50 years of success.
The Polimoda fashion show: Tell Me about You 9
On June 15 at Villa Favard there is a rendezvous with the up-and-coming talents of fashion. At the Polimoda Fashion Show 2017: Tell Me About You, the 20 best collections realised by Fashion Designs Graduates of the respected institute presented in front of an audience of fashion insiders and an international jury.
The Istituto Marangoni fashion show on the occasion of Pitti Uomo 92
To mark Pitti Uomo 92, the Istituto Marangoni held, “The 2017 Istituto Marangoni Best Menswear Collections” fashion show on June 13. On the catwalk there will be the collections of top students from the Istituto Marangoni’s campuses in Milan, London and Paris.In addition, Pineider celebrated the made in Florence story of its brand in its boutique.