Technology

Themed ‘Innovating the World of Textiles’, the 18th edition of ITMA, the world’s most established textile and garment technology exhibition, concluded successfully in Barcelona, Spain. The global textile and garment manufacturing industry converged at ITMA 2019, chalking up new records for the exhibition which has been held every four years since 1951. It featured many exciting new product launches and innovative technologies and products, including those that leverage the Internet of Things, by 1717 exhibitors from 45 countries.

CEMATEX, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, and owner of ITMA and ITMA ASIA, reported that the industry support from visitors and exhibitors was tremendous, resulting in record-breaking number of exhibitors since its inception

Fritz P Mayer, President of CEMATEX said, “The digital transformation of the textile and garment manufacturing value chain and sustainability concerns of the industry have driven up visitor interests in ITMA 2019. We had a strong turnout, despite trade tensions and poor business sentiments. Many of our exhibitors were pleasantly surprised with the large number of serious buyers attending the exhibition.

“They were also impressed with presence of new visitor segments, such as bigger numbers of fashion and sports brands. Considering that for this ITMA edition, the exhibition duration has been shortened from 8 to 7 days, we still enjoyed good visitorship.” ITMA 2019 attracted visitorship of over 105,000 from 137 countries. The top 5 countries where visitors came from were Spain (11 per cent), Italy (10 per cent), India (8 per cent), Turkey and Germany (7 per cent). They were followed by France, United States, Portugal, Brazil, Pakistan, China and the United Kingdom.

One of the exhibitors who was pleased with the visitor quality was Johan Verstraete, Vice-President Weaving Machines of Picanol. He explained, “Overall, it has been a good ITMA for us. We came with low expectations, but they have been considerably exceeded. Although we did not get a large number of visitors, the quality was very high. We had many conversations and negotiations, which was somewhat contradictory to the ongoing negative market sentiments.”

An excited Paolo Milini, President & CEO of MS Printing Solutions, agreed: “We are very satisfied with the show. The positive results of ITMA 2019 were made possible thanks to a large number of visitors who came to our stand. We have had over 600 contacts a day, and they come from over 90 countries!”

Launched as a dedicated sector at ITMA 2019, the printing and inks chapter had grown by 40 per cent compared with ITMA 2015, and featured many established and new exhibitors who were keen to exploit the digital printing sector.

VDMA Textile Machinery Association members were also happy with the visitor quality. Regina Brückner, CEO of Brückner Group and Chairperson of the Association, enthused: “A VDMA survey conducted at ITMA 2019 showed that almost 90 per cent of our exhibiting member companies considered both the quantity and quality of visitors as ‘good’ or ‘very good’. Visitors from all over the world came to ITMA Barcelona to discuss new projects.”

ITMA 2019 also provided the platform for the announcement of a comprehensive modernisation programme for Egypt’s textile industry valued at around 1 bn euro from exhibitors including Benninger, Brückner, EFI Reggiani, Itema, Karl Mayer, Rieter, Savio and Thies.

The innovation place

Many new technologies were launched, ranging from 3D weaving and knitting to hi-tech nonwovens processes, sustainable chemicals and state-of-the-art garmentmaking technologies, and wide range of software-powered automation solutions.

“I missed the last ITMA in Milan. After eight years, I find there is a big jump in technology. There are many interesting new developments, such as digitalisation and automation, as well as more eco-friendly products. I came here to also buy equipment for my factories, so this has been a fruitful trip for me,” said Kihak Sung, Founder of Youngone Corporation and President of International Textile Manufacturers Federation.

Another leading industry player, RakhiI Hirdaramani, Director of Hirdaramani and the Manufacturers Committee Chair of the World Federation of Sporting Goods International, said: “ITMA is a meeting of the minds. As much as it is a machinery fair, it’s also about understanding new technologies; meeting with your peers and colleagues from various sectors of the industry to understand the challenges and how to address them. One of the key trends we’ve seen this year, is about sustainability and Industry 4.0.”

Hirdaramani participated in a panel discussion held at the Speakers Platform, one of the components of the ITMA Innovation Lab which was launched at this year’s exhibition. The Platform drew strong interest and participation. It featured about 60 presentations, and was attended by over 900 participants.

In addition, a number of ITMA and co-located events drew over 1,000 delegates. Among the events were the ITMA-EDANA Nonwovens Forum, Textile Colourant and Chemical Leaders Forum, Better Cotton Initiative Seminar, European Digital Textile Conference, Tex-Summit Global, Planet Textiles, SAC & ZDHC Manufacturer Forum and Texmeeting by TEXFOR.

ITMA collaborated with supporting organisations, many of which sent visiting delegations from Central Asia, South Asia, Turkey and the Mediterranean countries. Among the high-level government delegations that were at ITMA included Catalan Minister of Business and Knowledge Ángels Chacon i Feixás; Governor of West Flanders Carl Decaluwé who led a press delegation from Flanders, Belgium; and the Uzbekistan Vice Minister of Silk Jumaev Olimjon and Vice Minister of Textile Jumaniyazov Fahriddin who led a delegation of 40 people.

Charles Beauduin, Chairman of ITMA Services, which organises ITMA 2019, said: “We are extremely glad that many industry stakeholders see ITMA as an excellent platform for collaboration and sharing of ideas to make the industry more competitive in the face of digital transformation and to explore cutting-edge solutions to future proof their business.”

Alex Zucchi, President of ACIMIT also shares Beauduin’s view. He said, “This Barcelona edition has confirmed ITMA as the main B2B platform in the textile industry. The many innovations seen here, especially in the field of sustainability and digitalisation, have increased the interest of visitors. It is essential to focus on these issues also for the next edition of ITMA to be held in Milan in 2023.”

The next ITMA will be held in Fiera Milano, Milan, Italy, from 8 to 14 June 2023. Some exhibitors, happy with their participation, have already started making plans for the next show.

Some glimpses of the show…

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Some glimpses of the show…

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ITMA sustainable innovation award

One of Europe’s largest denim producers, Candiani SpA has won the ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award, held in conjunction with ITMA 2019. Its innovative product, Candiani Re-Gen is a ‘circular denim’ fabric created from regenerated and recycled raw materials.

Fifty per cent of the Re-Gen fabric comprises Tencel x Refibra Lyocell made of pulp from cotton scraps and wood pulp using Lenzing’s efficient closed-loop process; the other 50 per cent consists of post-industrial recycled Candiani fibres. Candiani’s fabrics are also dyed using green technologies, resulting in substantial reduction in the use of water and chemicals in the fabric production and jean washing process.

According to Alberto Candiani, President of Candiani SpA, the fabric was created to commemorate Candiani’s 80th anniversary. He said, “We are a strong believer in sustainability. In creating the Re-Gen fabric, we leveraged Lenzing’s Tencel Lyocell fibres with Refibra technology, and combined it with our inhouse expertise to create an innovative product that is fashionable and environmentally friendly at the same time.”

Nominated for the award by ITMA 2019 exhibitor Lenzing Ag, Candiani SpA received the trophy from CEMATEX President Fritz P Mayer, at a presentation ceremony on the opening day of ITMA 2019.

Mayer said, “We would like to congratulate both Candiani and Lenzing for their excellent collaboration. CEMATEX launched the ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award in 2015 as we would like to encourage greater industry collaboration and synergies, as well as spur more research and development efforts. Ultimately, we need innovation to drive our business and contribute to a more circular economy.”

The two other finalists of the ITMA Industry Excellence Award – Levi Strauss & Co, and Lee – were also praised for their efforts to introduce green innovations into their products and processes. Winner of the first ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award in 2015, Levi Strauss & Co launched FLX Customisation Studio which revolutionalises in-store customisation by allowing customers to pick their denim finish and create a unique pair of jeans in less than two hours. The mobile studio uses sustainable garment finishing technologies and operates on 100 per cent recycled water. It leverages ITMA exhibitor Jeanologia’s water recycling system, H2Zero.

Established denim jeans brand Lee leverages Tonello’s innovative garment finishing system for its denim jeans. The All-in-One System combines four technologies that drastically reduces the water needed in the finishing stages of jean manufacturing thus reducing processing time and total production cost.

Research & Innovation Excellence Award

Fritz P Mayer, President of CEMATEX and the German Engineering Federation (VDMA), handed over the prize money of 10,000 euro with certificate to the lucky winner at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, Spain. The 3D braiding machine consists of an existing conventional mechanical system. It has now been digitised and rebuilt according to industry 4.0 standard. With the help of the digital control, e.g. threedimensionally reinforced ceramic turbine components can be manufactured as prototypes and subsequently produced in series. Together with the company ark industrie AG, Aachen, Germany, and 2C-Composites GmbH & Co. KG, Heinsberg, Germany, the control system was completely redesigned so that the machine can be monitored and operated from anywhere.

“Every machine manufacturer is looking for ways to update its existing machinery before replacing it. We provide him with a good solution in the field of digitisation and Industry 4.0,” says Professor Dr Thomas Gries, Head of ITA. At ITMA 2015, ITA doctoral candidate Jan Jordan had already won the R&I Excellence Award for his master thesis “Development & assembly of a test bench for the analysis of magnetic weft insertion.”

The ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award was created by CEMATEX to recognize the joint efforts of the global textile industry to promote corporate sustainability through innovative solutions and outstanding industry-specific research. The award comprises two categories: An Industry Excellence Award for textile and apparel manufacturers and a Research & Innovation Excellence Award open to Master’s students.

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Adobe Textile Designer debuts at ITMA

After performing live demonstrations of the Adobe Textile Designer plugin for Adobe Photoshop at the interactive Print-Make-Wear workshop at FESPA last month, Adobe exhibited Designer, for the very first time, at ITMA. “Adobe Textile Designer was conceived to help designer make prints for Fashion and fabrics for furnishing,” said Mike Scrutton, Director – Print Technology & Strategy for Adobe’s Print & Publishing Business Unit “Designers can be creative today, without worrying how they will print tomorrow. Adobe Textile Designer is flexible to allow traditional screen and engraved roller printing, as well as the latest digital techniques.”

Drawing from enthusiastic response from a broad range of textile designers, from major brands to independent professionals to part-timers and hobbyists, Adobe has developed the latest beta version of the product that it was unveiled at ITMA. With the latest beta version, Adobe also announced its collaboration with Datacolor, a global leader in colour management technology, and Color Solution International (CSI), a leading provider of colour standards and colour communication tools.

This collaboration connects Adobe Textile Designer with Datacolor’s professional colour lookup tool, ColorReaderPRO, and with the CSI ColorWall, a popular third-party colour standards library. The integration offers tremendous time and cost saving in the textile design process by eliminating the need to manually search and match textile colour samples with swatches or colour codes. Designers can now use Datacolor ColorReaderPRO to measure any source of colour inspiration and translate the colour data directly to photoshop.

Adobe Textile Designer helps fashion and décor artists to streamline the process of creating prints for fabrics. Designers can build and preview repeating patterns, define separations, and work with colorways, all within Photoshop, while keeping every element editable, and reversible, until the design is ready for printing. Like most Adobe Creative Cold applications, Adobe Textile Designer support non-destructive elements, with independent layers adjustments, filters, and allowing users to place an illustrator smart object (vector) in a Photoshop design that can be edited later. After a design is ready to print, designers can save their work in various formats, and can include XMP metadata in their output files that will be used in the fabric production process. Adobe Textile Designer is currently in beta and it invites textile designers to try out, test and provide feedback.

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IMA SpA introduces Mithos 892 totally digital spreader

IMA SpA is an Italian capital company founded in 1977 in Turin. A few years after its establishment, it joined the Macpi Group and transfered its production site in Palazzolo, in the province of Brescia, home of the other companies of the Group. IMA SpA has consolidated over the years a position of absolute international leadership in offering the widest range of spreading installations, cloth rolls handling and managing systems and software programs for full organization in cutting room. One of the latest innovations by the company is Mithos 892 totally digital spreader:

Main advantages of the digital system:

• Machine information, controls and diagnostics totally controlled in digital, in real time
• The fabric supply and the voltage-free system are also electronically controlled in real time by a Digital Signal that guarantees: High precision of the positioning of the machine, Perfect alignment of the selvedges, High pulse encoder that allows the machine to work in MM. instead of cm, with a great saving of fabric and time
• Possibility to set, memorize and load in real time unlimited drafting profiles based on the type of fabric
• Low consumption thanks to eco-power technology (latestgeneration Mitsubishi inverters) and low management costs
• High speed data transfer,
• Possibility of remote connection from devices such as tablets or smartphones,
• Possibility to interface the machine with business management systems,
• Easy remote assistance service from the IMA team.

Details of the machine

• 4 drive wheels with synchronous belt
• Interactive touch-screen with flexible performance to control the drafting functions
• Possibility to display and update the use of the fabric
• Automatic braking system
• Two-way cutting device with speed and adjustable accelerations and programmable lifting
• Fixed cradle turret lowered to facilitate loading and unloading of the fabric roll, consisting of a double full-width PVC mat
• Rear carpet moved by air pistons
• Management of spreading with fixed steps

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Dover Digital Printing showcases new technologies

Dover Digital Printing, part of Dover, exhibited a range of new and enhanced products and technologies. Dover Digital Printing brands MS Printing Solutions, JK Group and Caldera showcased new printing technology, specialised textile inks and latest developments in raster image processor (RIP) software.

MS Printing Solutions presented the new Mini LaRio. This 8-colour, 64-printhead printer has been developed to fill an existing gap in the market between the LaRio and the JPK-EVO in terms of speed and return on investment, said Dover Digital. With the innovative positioning of the printing heads unit, the Mini LaRio has a 2xCMYK maximum speed of 1500/3000 – 1094 mtr/hour for both fabric and paper. MS Printing Solutions also presented the new in-line fabric pre-treatment that has allowed the LaRio to take a new leap forward – set-up times are cut in half, automatic-dosage reduces raw materials used and waste produced, and a reduction in water and energy consumption makes for an improved environmental impact.

JK Group showcased their range of Kiian Digital Digistar inks. The new Digistar Bellagio reactive inks range is further expanded by the addition of two new colours. Also on display was Digistar Bravo disperse ink, developed for high runability and excellent quality, and Digistar K-Choice pigment inks, designed for Kyocera printheads, providing a huge gamut of spot colours. Caldera brought the latest version of its textile RIP suite, TextilePro, to ITMA. This is Caldera’s intuitive production suite for textile printing. Key features included RGB Workflow, which guarantees full fidelity to original colours, Custom Inkset, which allows for the addition of a new colour mode to NColor printers, Tex&Repeat module for creating repeatable and aligned patterns, and colour management, for excellent colour consistency.

Dover Digital Printing is comprised of the brands of Caldera, Kiian Digital, J-Teck, MS Printing Solutions and Sawgrass Industrial, and provides a complete solution of digital printing needs while driving efficiency for customers and leading to greater speed, accuracy and profitability.

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Software suite for automated textile cutting by Zünd

Zünd presented its latest technology including its automated cutting workflows with state-of-the-art software tools. With its MindCUT Studio, Zünd offers a powerful, modular software suite for automated textile cutting. The company says that the MindCUT Studio excels in flexibility and modularity, offering highly efficient nesting for plain fabrics as well as pattern matching and a seamless print and cut workflow for digitally printed textiles. As is the case in many other industries, the proliferation of digital technology has had a profound impact on the textile industry. Consumers enjoy the affordability of tailor-made clothing and custom-made upholstered furniture. With more design and configuration options available, manufacturers are streamlining their production processes through automation and increased flexibility, thereby finding ways to successfully deal with increasing market pressures and ever shorter product Iifecycles.

With MindCUT Studio, Zünd offers a modular software solution that largely automates digital textile cutting — from capturing materials, to creating production markers and facilitating parts removal — in a thoroughly integrated, comprehensive digital workflow. In the first step of the process, a camera system captures the material, its exact position and dimensions. It makes no difference whether the fabric is patterned, plain, or digitally printed. For printed textile applications, an Over-Cutter Camera (OCC) system captures all registration marks simultaneously. In case there are no register marks, the OCC can alternatively record the position of images based on printed outlines. If no cut data is available, there is an option to generate it automatically in MindCUT Studio. Material defects can be marked in advance to avoid being noticed only after cutting, the company explains.

It adds that the system can also automatically recognise patterns and any distortions that may have occurred. When compensating for distortions, the dimensional accuracy of the parts and their exact placement on patterned fabric are precisely maintained. The software also provides pattern-matching options, regardless of whether the textile has a stripe pattern or is plaid. MindCUT Studio is able to automatically import standardised data and process it. The system recognises both part and marker-based data. In addition, MindCUT Studio lets the user create individual markers. The software uses powerful nesting algorithms to lay out parts on the fabric for maximum material usage and automatically creates production markers, the company continues. For efficient parts removal, the operator must be able to quickly and unmistakably identify each piece. MinciCut Studio provides colour coding and parts information both projected onto the cut pieces and displayed on the monitor. MindCUT Studio Production contains all essential functions for the different processing phases in digital textile cutting. With a variety of additional options, the software can be tailored to individual needs, Zünd adds.

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Ichinose showcases digital textile printing innovations

Ichinose has improved its Iugo Hybrid Textile Printer, developments of which were displayed at ITMA. The printer, which does screen printing for special effects and digital printing, previously had Ricoh print heads and works as a multi-pass printer. The machine has been improved so it now runs on a Konica Minolta Nassenger 10 engine, which provides a more synchronised movement. As a result, any bottlenecks in the process are alleviated. The iugo, which can use any type of inks, can also pre-treat the fabric inline. It has three screen stations for three different added value effects, such as metallic – which digital cannot yet achieve.

Enrico Verga, Chief Operating Officer, Konica Minolta IJ Textile Europe, says: “Inkjet has some limitations. It can’t print gold, metallic etc. The hybrid combination uses screen and digital. As a result this kind of hybrid machine increases and meets market demands by providing flexibility.” However, if the machine isn’t needed for a special design at any time, so if screens aren’t needed for a certain print run, the printer can just print digitally as the Konica Minolta Nassenger 10. “Ichinose and Konica Minolta have a very good relationship,” says Verga.The technology has good prospects in Europe, having received positive feedback at ITMA. Ideal applications for the printer are high value-added textile products like accessories such as cushions.

Another interesting technology that made its European debut at ITMA was its GINGA digital printing machine. The machine digitally prints on socks, using either dye-sublimation, acid or reactive inks, depending on the substrate. A finished, unprinted sock is placed onto a carbon fibre tube (carbon fibre can with stand the high temperatures in the printer) and it is loaded onto the machine then moves into the printer. Seconds later the tube comes out with the sock fully printed. The sock is then put into an oven for less than two minutes to fix the ink and bring out the colour vibrancy. The process is completely dry.

Three machines have currently been sold and installed: One in Japan and two in the US. The company is looking to develop robotic technology to put the sock on the tube, the tube in the machine, and to place in and out of the oven to bake it, to further streamline the process in the future.

Ginga Industrial Spiral Printer for next generation has four innovative features:

High-speed spiral print: The design is generated and printed spirally by software independently developed. Compatibility of the speed and the quality became possible.

• For the start of the print and the end to become a dot, there are no line-like joint as in like the past. A print overlap and white getting away disappear.
• GINGA doesn’t have bidirectional print and no differences in ink drop jetting.

Fixed head print system: Print head and ink tube don’t move to the time of print, and sock is moved on the catapult and printed. Therefore behaviour of a head and ink jetting is stable also, a head isn’t exposed to a wind, and the maintenance improves because dryness can also be stopped.

One-pass head arrangement: It’s possible to perform high speed and efficient prints because head arrangement is different from a usual ink-jet printer. Head arrangement is lengthwise in line. It can be said a small 1 Pass machine.

Tube System: After socks are set in tube (cylinder), tube is set in machine. There it became possible to divide into print work and preliminary set work, and the productivity improved dramatically. A tube can be customized according to the kind of socks. When socks is polyester, hot coloring can be treated with a tube made of developed carbon wholly for sublimation ink.

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New scanning printing systems and flagship solutions by ALEPH

Innovation and environmental sustainability in digital textile printing were central to Aleph’s showcase at ITMA 2019. A leading Italian manufacturer of sublimation and direct-to-fabric inkjet printers for the textile and visual communication industries, headquartered in the textile district of Como, Aleph unveiled a range of brand-new scanning printing systems aimed at enhancing and integrating its flagship series, LaForte. Designed as a fashion boutique, the company’s booth hosted the latest cutting-edge technologies developed by Aleph and a wealth of textile applications, including textiles printed with modern and trendy patterns and designs, aiming to demonstrate how advanced digital printing technologies are transforming the high-end fashion, fast fashion, sportswear and athleisure, home textile industries.

LaForte series, ranging from entry-level to flagship models

LaForte 600 Fabric is an industrial inkjet direct-to-textile printer designed to deliver high-volume manufacturing of extremely high-quality printed textiles. Enabling a print speed from 600 up to 1000 sq mtr/hour at a print resolution up to 1200 dpi, LaForte 600 Fabric almost reaches the same productivity as single-pass inkjet presses but featuring scanning technology. Aleph’s printer features a compact design, which facilitates its integration into various production environments, and a waterless process that reduces the consumption of water and energy, resulting in drastically lowered production costs and environmental impact.

Aleph exhibited a complete production line, featuring: A fabric feeding system that supports jumbo reels (up to 1 m roll diameter and 1.000 kg roll weight), LaForte 600 Fabric (equipped with 48 printheads), a proprietary drying system and an exit plater including optional winding unit. Both the feeding system and the plater are from Italian company Bianco Group, partnering with Aleph. Aleph also used ITMA to showcase its flagship solutions addressing different textile market segments. These include:

• LaForte 200 Fabric, a direct-to-fabric inkjet printer featuring a compact design and a patented rotary belt. The printer is designed to address mid to high print volume production (up to 400 sqm/h with 3400 mm print width in one pass and up to 300 sqm/h with 1800 mm print width in one pass). At the show in Barcelona, Aleph showcased a LaForte 200 Fabric model equipped with 8 dual-module printheads (dual channel, two colours per head) and with pigment inks, and ran live demonstrations of direct printing onto wide ranges of fibres

• LaForte 100 Paper is a versatile inkjet printing system. A water-based dyesublimation entry-level solution with production speed up to 200 sq mtr/h, LaForte 100 features 4 to 8 printheads and is equipped with a patented rotary belt with vacuum system, which enables to print on paper with grammage starting from 10 gsm.

Another highlight at Aleph’s boutique was the showcase of high-quality printed fabrics and textiles. The brand-new advanced pigment inks and direct disperse dyes developed by Aleph don’t require pre and post treatments – enabling a significant reduction in water consumption – and guarantee durability and colour vibrancy thanks to an innovative binder with ultra-clinging-to-the-fibre capability. In addition, Aleph has recently developed new pre and post treatment solutions that help further enhance the solidity and colour vibrancy also on special fibres.

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EFI Reggiani presents latest innovations in digital textile

Electronics for Imaging, Inc. showcased the advanced, leading-edge technologies that make EFI™ Reggiani a textile innovator, including the game-changing EFI Reggiani BOLT single-pass inkjet printer – the first digital textile solution capable of high-quality output at record production speeds of up to 90 linear mtr (295 linear feet) per minute.

Transformational technology for the industry’s digital migration

The new, 1.8-mtr (71-inch) wide Reggiani BOLT printer is designed to give textile manufacturers high uptime and reliability, high performance throughout and unparalleled printing uniformity and accuracy, in addition to superior printhead life and minimal maintenance needs. Thanks to its cutting-edge printhead concept and high-performance ink delivery system, the Reggiani BOLT reaches a record throughput speed of 90 mtr/minute at a 600 x 600 dots per inch (dpi) resolution. It features high-end imaging in drop sizes from 5 to 30 picoliters, and also provides premium-quality 600 x 4,800 maximum-dpi resolution printing, allowing customers to address their full range of design needs.

A robust, industrial platform designed for 24/7 operation, the Reggiani BOLT printer offers an innovative, low-maintenance, fast-startup recirculation printhead that delivers more-uniform, high-quality printing with superior uptime. Users can reduce the cost per meter of digitally printed textiles with the Reggiani BOLT while creating a broader range of designs quickly and efficiently. The printer also has another remarkable advantage in its ability to include one or more analog printing stations as an option, integrated into the digital printer for special effects.

The Fiery BT-1000 DFE is a professional colour management and RIP solution that enables efficient job management and streams jobs directly to the Reggiani BOLT printer in real time. It is purpose-built to deliver fine detail, smooth gradations, clean solid colours, deep blacks, and high saturation. Superior screening and fine dithering algorithms provide high-quality print results.

Time-to-market miracles: Design and sampling solutions

EFI’s stand featured one of the industry’s most-advanced workflows for design through production. The newest-version EFI Optitex software featured in the EFI exhibit addresses retailers’ and brands’ urgent need to bring new products to market faster. The new release delivers true-to-life fabric simulations, enabling custom views of designs for consistent and adaptable 3D sample displays, minimizing the need for physical samples and costly photo shoots across the design and production workflow. A new EFI Optitex Print & Cut feature enables complete garment printing on a single roll, creating significant savings in fabric roll inventory, with typically 15-40 per cent greater efficiency compared to traditional methods. Fashion and apparel manufacturers also benefit from an improved nesting algorithm in the software that increases fabric utilization.

The Fiery DesignPro textile design software tools EFI showed at ITMA work seamlessly with Adobe® Photoshop® and Illustrator® in Mac® or Microsoft® Windows® environments. This set of powerful textile and fashion design plug-ins are efficient to use, fast to learn, and make it easy to switch between DesignPro and native Photoshop or Illustrator software during the design process. The plugins significantly reduce the time and effort needed to create repeat patterns, colorways, separations, weaves, knits, or garment sketches. Plus, Fiery DesignPro gives designers the ability to effectively and efficiently communicate colours and seasonal palettes through the entire design team, all the way to production.

EFI also announced a new EFI Reggiani BOLT Capsule proofing printer model, designed to perfectly match Reggiani BOLT print results to let users preview them before moving to production. This high-end scanning/multi-pass printer delivers high coverage and uniform printing with highly accurate fabric feeding. It features the same special, high-quality, highly reliable inkjet heads as the Reggiani BOLT model, with an efficient, innovative recirculation feature to ensure that it stays ready to print without extensive preventive maintenance.

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DGI launches new direct to textile printer “APOLLON”

DGI launched APOLLON, a new direct to digital textile printer. DGI is said to be the only Korean digital printer maker that develops and manufactures with 100 per cent of its own technology. DGI developed APOLLON, featuring 16 Kyocera printheads, based on its technology that accumulated inkjet printer development. To increase print speed and productivity required by the textile industry, printheads are arranged in a staggered format (Eight colours in two columns). Its maximum printing speed is about 360 sqm/h. Additionally, it is designed to meet the various demands of customers with four, six and eight colour-select print modes. To realise high printing quality during the high-speed printing mode, a magnetic linear motor is applied to APOLLON. It meets the need for improvement requested by major customers and measures against all previous models, according to DGI. In addition, DGI built its driver firmware software, GUI, with its own technology. And, for user convenience, DGI developed its own mobile application to check the status, ink level and print history of its printer in real time.

“In the meantime, Italian manufacturers have been leading mass-production equipment manufacturing, and world-leading manufacturing is relatively insufficient in Asia,” says Bryan Choi, President of DGI. “Asian markets such as China and India are radically emerging, but service delays due to long distance have been pointed out as a problem. In response, DGI will not only sell high-speed printers for mass-production, that are required by customers, at competitive prices, but also enhance its technical support through the localisation of major service markets such as China and India,” Choi adds. Besides, APOLLON, DGI’s HS FT III high-speed sublimation printer and the FH-3204 – a 3.2 m soft signage printer – were also on display at its stand.

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Digital transfer paper for printing on natural fibres by Neenah

Neenah Coldenhove unveiled its Texcol digital pigment transfer paper at this year’s edition of ITMA. The newly developed Neenah Coldenhove digital transfer paper allows users to print on a wide range of natural fibre textiles, such as cotton, using a waterless process. Texcol digital transfer paper eliminates complex pre or post-treatments of textiles, and reduces the user’s cost and carbon footprint, according to the company.

Willem Jan Bannink, New Business Engineer, Neenah Coldenhove says, “In the past, other companies have tried to create a digital pigment transfer paper, but the quality hasn’t been good. We have been able to achieve the quality. “We know the market, previously dye-sub, has only been possible on polyester, not on natural fibres, but this is only a percentage of the market. We wanted a similar process for natural fibres.” This way, Neenah Coldenhove can offer its products to a wider range of markets.

has been tested with a number of inks, including Dupont Artistri inks. There is no need for pre-treatment, with no binder required and after printing, the only step left is to transfer with the use of a calender or a press.

“It takes out a step in the production process,” says Pepijn Bourgonje, Marketing and Sales at Neenah Coldenhove. “Therefore, it’s quicker, a cheaper investment and reduces the carbon footprint. “There are no chemicals, washing off of chemicals or wastewater,” adds Bannink. The process is consequently much more sustainable and reduces costs in terms of energy, water usage and wastewater recycling or removal. As the process is completely dry.

“The biggest advantage of the technology is the reduction of investment costs,” says Bannink. Pigment inks are traditionally more expensive than dye-sublimation inks, so the reduction in other costs makes pigments a more affordable option. The technology also uses 25 per cent less ink compared to direct printing.

“We are digitalising the printing process for natural fibres,” continues Bannink. “Printing on natural fibres has traditionally been an analogue process and any direct to textile printing technologies have a high initial investment cost.” Neenah Coldenhove says that Texcol guarantees a wider colour gamut with deeper, more brilliant colours in comparison to digital direct pigment printing. The light fastness of the product is outstanding, adds the company, and the paper’s special coating makes it highly resistant to crocking. It’s this coating that also allows users to generate ink savings of up to 25 per cent on their current jobs, the company adds.

The wet rubbing of the product achieved an ISO standard of 4, dry rubbing 5 and washing 4. Texcol is designed to run on most plotter printers and allows for easy transfer when using the currently available technologies. Users can transition to this new way of printing without having to make large investments.

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Colorjet launches 16 Head Vastrajet® Digital Textile Printer

Building up on the success of the Vastrajet®- 8824, ColorJet India Ltd, the biggest Indian manufacturer of digital printers launched Vastrajet®- 8164, a digital textile printer with 16 heads at ITMA. The advanced, high speed direct to fabric printer Vastrajet®- 8164 has the ability to become a commercial winner by providing users with outstanding performance, increased productivity, superior printing accuracy with minimal maintenance needs.

The latest Vastrajet®- 8164 comes with the latest technological innovation from ColorJet –AiS™ (Adaptive Ink System). The AiS™ provides the customer flexibility to use ink of their choice to address his various issues of logistics, procurement, colour consistency, etc. ColorJet has always strived to support their partners by bringing technological modifications by fine tuning the machine as per the inks. The new Vastrajet®- 8164 also comes equipped with AIVC™ technology which provides consistent print performance at varying environmental conditions. With these technological innovations and additional refinements, the Vastrajet®- 8164 is in true sense, a Commercial Winner.

“Being the leader of textile digital printing industry in India it comes as a responsibility for us to create state of the art products while keeping in mind the demands of the customers and ColorJet is dedicated to being at the forefront of fulfilling customer needs,” Jitender Pal Singh Vice President (Textiles) at ColorJet India said. “When developing the Vastrajet® 8164, our R&D team aimed to increase productivity, performance, and reliability, which ultimately resulted in a product whose performance increased by up to 70 per cent from its predecessor, making it one of the fastest printers in the market in this category,” he added.

ColorJet also demonstrated high-speed Metro-8166 which delivers industriallevel production with speeds of up to 294 sq. mtr per hour. The Metro-8166 was operated at ITMA 2019 on reactive ink, whereas the Vastrajet® – 8164 ran on pigment ink on cotton blended fabrics. As per the latest IDC report with more than 34 per cent market share in India, which is the second fastest growing digital textile printing industry in the world, ColorJet gears up to command a strong position in the textile industry globally.

ColorJet supplies the very best in digital textile technologies in the industry, whereby, ColorJet printers have production speeds which are 45 per cent more than the nearest competition, takes up 47 per cent lesser space and consumes 42 per cent less power as compared to other machines. Additionally, other digital textile printers consume 51 times more water as compared to ColorJet printers, making it the most sought after brand with its products starting at $59,000. These improvements and the development of AiS™ technology is further proof of ColorJet’s commitment to address the global digital textile printing industry’s most urgent needs.

ColorJet India markets its products in 25 countries worldwide and has installed and implemented over 4,000 of its printing solutions and products across 450 cities around the world backed by a strong 278-member team, of which almost 100 are in technical related functions.

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Mouvent unveils new digital textile machine

Mouvent unveiled its new textile machine – the TX802 – for the very first time at ITMA 2019. The new TX802 builds on the success of Mouvent’s popular inaugural digital textile printer, the TX801. TX802 is a 8-colour multi-pass digital textile printer producing the highest print quality on textiles with up to 2,000 DPI optical resolution, and is associated with very high printing speeds of up to 100 linear m/min. It has double the output of the TX801, producing up to 400 sqm per hour of perfectly printed fabrics. It achieves this with only 20 per cent additional space required compared with the TX801.

“The TX802 really demonstrates the benefits of the Mouvent Cluster technology,” said Ghislain Segard, Marketing & Sales Manager, Textile Machines at Mouvent. “It is the reason why we can develop a machine that has doubled the output of the TX801 with minimal extra floor space required. By simply duplicating the clusters, each colour is jetted by two printing heads, providing the highest-quality result with the greatest efficiency of space and cost.”

The Mouvent Cluster is an ingenious digital printing technology, which uses clusters instead of fixed size print bars by colour, arranging them in a modular, scalable matrix. The result is one system that can be simply adapted for all substrates, of all widths, for all markets. The innovative cluster design is the base building block for all systems, current and in development and was the centerpiece of Mouvent machines for a wide variety of other markets beyond textiles, such as labels, corrugated board, flexible packaging, folding carton and more.

Like TX802, Mouvent also revealed its own Digital Front End – titled Mouvent DFE – for the first time at the fair. Mouvent DFE enables seamless, simple preparation of print data and excellent print results.

The TX801 was also at the Mouvent stand. It is a very durable, compact and accessible printer, which has proven to be very popular with customers worldwide since its launch in 2017. The machine runs special applications with acid-inks.

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HP Stitch S300 Printer – Dye-sub printing and colour matching made easy

HP Inc. creates technology that makes life better for everyone, everywhere. Through its portfolio of personal systems, printers, and 3D printing solutions, it engineers experiences that amaze.

Colour made easy with HP SmartColor

• Confidently distribute jobs across your fleet with best-in-class colour consistency from printer to printer
• Get accurate colours over time, even as environmental conditions change, with the built-in spectrophotometer
• Automatically detect when a colour is out of gamut and get the closest visual match with PANTONE® emulation
• Easily create colour profiles in half the time, or use finished profiles from cloudbased library

A versatile, safe investment

• With a single device, print on both transfer paper and direct-to-fabric with great results
• If you’ve got limited room, this front media loading printer can save you 30 per cent floor space.
• Stay ready for production and avoid unexpected costs with preventive maintenance from HP Smart Services.

Rely on the complete solution from HP

• For your peace of mind, the printer, ink, media, and software are designed to work together perfectly
• Get the print quality you expect with 1200 dpi resolution and the Smart Nozzle Compensation system
• Reduce downtime and service costs. For the first time, you can replace the printheads yourself
• Be always ready to print outsta

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First 16 channel digital textile printer by Epson

Digital fabric printing technology pioneer, Epson displayed its 16 channel Monna Lisa Evo Tre 32, the first digital printer capable of hosting up to 16 different colours. This important technological evolution provides printers with a colour range that comes close to traditional printing.

The 16 channel Monna Lisa Evo Tre 32 has an external rack which can be positioned adjacent to the machine wherever is most convenient. This rack houses up to 16 different Genesta Acid ink packs and allows the printer to use a wide range of colours, including special colours or custom treatments.

Expanded colour range and increased customisation. The first digital printer to provide up to 16 colours, the 16 channel Monna Lisa Evo Tre 32 offers a free and wide colour-selection. It is possible to use standard Genesta Acid inks (Yellow, Orange, Red, Magenta, Rubine, Blue, Cobalt, Cyan, Grey, Black), with Genesta Fluorescent colours (Flavine and Pink) and the new Genesta Brown and Navy Blue. In this way printing companies can produce both sportswear and beachwear (Fluorescent colours) and other textile markets (spot colours) with the same printer.

Those who use Across liquid to obtain perfect colour penetration on fabrics that require equal colour brightness on either side (such as silk scarves) can still use all colours available and the finished product’s quality will be far higher.

The 16 channel Monna Lisa Evo Tre 32 – Key Points:

16 channel configuration: The external rack can be loaded with up to 16 Genesta Acid inks.

• Maximum versatility: Having 16 different channels enables a wider colour range and avoids losing colours when using special inks (such as Genesta Fluorescent), spot colours (such as Genesta Brown and Navy Blue) or ink penetration liquid (Across) • Print quality: New inks further improve to the print’s appearance – especially in critical tones and large single-colour areas • Adaptability: Ability to use two black channels while keeping all other colours • Printheads: 32 Epson PrecisionCore Printheads. PrecisionCore printing technology is the latest evolution of Epson’s Micro Piezo proprietary printing technology. The latest generation MicroTFP print chip combines quality, accuracy and speed • Productivity: Standard 8 colour configuration up to 692 sqm/h (300x600dpi, 1 pass); 16 channel configuration up to 440 sqm/h (300×600 dpi) • Resolution: Up to 1200dpi. • Width: 180cm /220cm/320cm • Ink channels: Up to 16 • Ink capacity: 3 litres • Ink types: Genesta Acid, Reactive, Disperse and Pigment. Genesta water-based inks allow precision and colour fastness in fabric prints. Genesta inks obtain the highest quality on any fabric type.

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DuPont presents new pigment and dispersion-based solutions

DuPont celebrated 30 years of its digital textile printing ink brand, Artistri, at ITMA 2019 and has this year further developed its ink portfolio to offer new pigment and dispersion-based solutions. The company also brought a new pre-treatment for digital pigment printing to the show, suitable for both DTG and roll-to-roll solutions, for improved hand feel and fastness. DuPont’s pigment developments have been made with wash fastness and rub fastness as the primary focus. Colour maintenance and longevity are critical for digital’s uptake by textile print houses, and Global Business Director Advanced Printing, Samuel Ponzo, says DuPont is committed to enabling “digital to become a mainstream technology.”

On 1 June 2019, DuPont re-established itself as a ‘speciality products’ company, moving away from Dow and Corteva Agriscence. Complete with a rebrand, DuPont is focusing on key vertical markets, one of which is, of course, textiles. The company also carries out R&D in the fabric space to ensure its inks are suitable for varying fabric types and qualities and has been working on eliminating pin-holing with improved ink coverage. A further pigment ink will be launched by DuPont later this year, which includes a new binder technology. The binder has been tested by a number of prominent machinery OEMs in the digital textile printing area and is said to strike the right balance between particle level, jetability and binder concentration.

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Versatility and cost saving in dyeing with Alliance Machines

Piece dyeing machine manufacturer, Alliance Machines Textiles, showed its Rotora dyeing machine with an integrated drying device this year. This combination allowed wet treatment for both standard and technical fabrics and to achieve drying inside the machine before offloading, says the company. Another machine in Alliance’s portfolio includes the Riviera Eco Green dyeing machine. This product has a very low liquor ratio (1:2 to 1:3), and thanks to its air blowing system, tubular, open knitted and woven fabrics, can be dyed free of crease marks. The Riviera Eco Green machines can deal with capacities from 10 kg to 1,000 kg and storage baskets in various widths can be delivered. This means that very light fabrics as well as very heavy ones can all be dyed, the company adds. Other machines like Futura (long-type dyeing), Zephyra (finishing machine for fabrics in rope form), and Labojet, as well as machines with very large capacities, were also on show.

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Karl Mayer presents Prodye-R rope dyeing machine

At ITMA 2019, Karl Mayer operated the Prodye-R rope dyeing unit – a machine that “impresses by its performance in the powerful denim player’s everyday production,” according to the company. The Prodye-R scores with respect to comparable machines with a high speed during the opening of the yarn ropes after dyeing – the so-called rebeaming – and also with a reduced number of the required dye boxes, says Karl Mayer. This opens up far-reaching efficiency and savings potential. Among other things, significantly fewer chemicals, e.g. around 20 per cent less hydrogen sulphide, are required.

The rebeaming process is 15-20 per cent faster. In addition, the “Prodye-R requires a significantly shorter dyeing section; says Enzo Paoli, Managing Director of Karl Mayer Rotal, Karl Mayer’s centre of excellence for denim, who expects fresh impetus for further business transactions. According to the company, the Prodye-R has only eight to nine instead of 12 dye units but reaches colour depths of up to 5.5 per cent. Also, thanks to the fluted rollers in the sky oxidation, the indigo dyestuff is extremely solid physically bonded, and the colour shade is bright. Due to the shorter dye section, it is possible to reduce the total volume of the indigo dye bath by more than 25 per cent and to reduce the energy consumption.

The result is a marked drop in costs. This is based on targeted technical optimisations regarding the feeding of the dye liquor and the rope guiding through the bath. Besides, the special recirculation of the dye liquor requires less chemicals such as caustic soda; and by means of the special ECO wash box design, it is possible to reduce water consumption by roughly 30 per cent, the company adds. The rebeaming process of the Prodye-R convinces by its speed. The possible time saving compared to conventional similar plants is 15-20 per cent, which can be used for reducing the required number of Long Chain Beamers, says Karl Mayer. An important prerequisite for this fact, however, are technical solutions that ensure a homogeneous build-up of the ropes during their passage through the machine.

Ropes consisting of threads that stick together considerably, can only be separated slowly after dyeing. Otherwise, it comes to yarn breakages, which have to be repaired by knotting, resulting in inferior quality and efficiency losses during weaving. Special attention is paid to a uniform rope structure already during the feeding of the material to the machine. The Ball Warper draws the yarns from the bobbins, brings the threads together to form a rope, and winds up the rope in cross lapping to a ball.

During this cycle, the computer-controlled system ensures an operation that is gentle to the material, with a constant, smooth run. Afterwards, the ropes are removed from the balls and guided through the dye section. During this procedure, a perfect tension control by load cells facility that is adapted to the material, ensures that the compact, uniform structure of the ropes is not adversely affected. In the dryer section the conventional belts were replaced by motors to ensure a perfect tension control, keeping the right elasticity of the yarn. At the exit of the dryer, a coiler with circular motion ensures a uniform storage/stacking of the ropes in cans.

This step also contains design know-how. Coilers with linear bars replace the commonly used mechanic gear coilers, offering highest flexibility instead of long reaction time. Within a very short period, it is possible to adjust the rope twist to different machine speeds and rope weights. The result: Yarn compound structures without threads sticking together, that can be separated at high speeds, and that can be wound onto a warp beam, says Karl Mayer.

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Saurer displays intelligent embroidery solution

Saurer presented the intelligent, fully-fledged embroidery solution that offers a wide range of customisation options for customers, the Epoca 7 shuttle embroidery machine. The embroidery machine features enhanced automation technology and a new application device.

Epoca 7 also incorporates modernised CAD/CAM design software and a new mill management system. It sets new standards in terms of productivity, with an increase of up to 25 per cent compared to its predecessor. It also boasts a speed of up to 700 rpm. The machine requires 5 per cent less energy than its forerunner, even when machine speed is increased by 18 per cent. In terms of savings, this gives the customer the edge to total cost of ownership, according to Saurer.

The new automatic rear carriage adjustment helps in reducing the machine setting time. The rear carriage width can be set automatically according to the yarn properties, resulting in a substantial reduction in yarn breaks. The intelligent thread watcher SmartMon drives the precise and fast detection of yarn breaks, on both shuttle and needle side, which drastically lowers mending costs by up to 70 per cent. In an environment where cotton is used, cotton dust pollutes the machine, resulting in early wear of the moving parts. With the new overhead cleaner – CleanGuard, this phenomenon is significantly reduced.

The HeadLine system with sequin, cord and the new LaserHead redefines and pushes the boundaries of embroidery applications and designs. The laser technology drives the precise cutting of virtually all synthetic and natural fabrics. EmStudio incorporates all design workflow from sketch to production on a single platform. This modern tool provides the full solution from embroidery drawing, punching, visualisation of the design, product optimisation and productivity analysis to archiving design with information and machine settings. The intelligent stitch editor iSed optimises the quality of embroidery stiches.

Senses are a new innovative control and analysis tool. Senses allow to collect and analyse the production, quality and machine data. The advantage is total transparency and the optimisation of production processes. The result is enhanced efficiency and increased profitability.

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Archroma presents 5 Innovations and 24 System Solutions

Archroma, a global leader in colour and speciality chemicals towards sustainable solutions, was at ITMA to launch its latest innovations and system solutions aimed to help textile manufacturers with optimised productivity and/or value creation in their markets. Archroma offers a wide portfolio of dyes and chemicals aiming to increase sustainability and innovation along the entire value chain, from fibre to finish.

Archroma is reputed for its continuous flow of groundbreaking innovations, such as the EarthColors®, a range of dyes made from non-edible natural waste from the agricultural and herbal industry, Inkpresso®, a digital printing system that enables ink mixing on site and on demand, Smartrepel® Hydro, a nature-friendlier protection that keeps cotton, polyester and polyamide textiles dry, the Color Atlas, a revolutionary colour system comprising of a physical and online library of 4,320 new colours developed on cotton poplin.

More recently, Archroma introduced the purest indigo, Denisol® Pure Indigo, an aniline-free* synthetic pre-reduced liquid indigo launched in 2018, Appretan® NTR, a new nature-based binder for nonwovens, and Fadex® AS New, a new “super UV protector” for automotive & transportation textiles, both introduced in May 2019.

At ITMA, Archroma presented 24 solution systems and 5 innovations, and held “Innovation & Solutions Sessions” at its booth to present them. The systems and innovations presented by Archroma have all been selected for their compliance with “The Archroma Way: Safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature.” The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable. At ITMA, visitors were able to discover how the innovations and ingredients selected in each system are combining to help create value in their application process and end market:
• Denim & casual wear
• Home & intimate textiles
• Fashion & formal wear;
• Automotive & transportation
• Outdoor & active wear
• Workwear & uniforms

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Huntsman introduces new era of digital printing solutions

Huntsman Textile Effects launched the nextgeneration of high performance digital ink ranges to help customers achieve superior printing on cellulosic and polyester/cotton blends. As the industry’s focus on sustainability and performance increases coupled with the rising market demand for polyester/ cotton blends, these two new product ranges offer state-of-the-art performance substantially enhancing sustainability and environmental standards.

Next-generation of digital inks: Novacron® Advance ink is the next generation of reactive inks for cellulosic with outstanding shade depth and colour gamut, developed for the latest industrial digital printing machines. The full range achieves remarkable deep shades with perfect reliability and reproducibility compared to currently available technologies.

“We are excited to introduce our next generation ink solution that deliver high performance in terms of remarkable brilliancy, gamut and colour depth,” said Mike Mordente, Business Unit Director for Digital Inks at Huntsman Textile Effects. “More efficient to use with higher mileage, these products require minimal maintenance and result in greater savings while meeting stringent industry standards.”

ERIOFAST® VISTA ink enables printers to achieve brilliant lasting designs on polyester/cotton blends and outperforms the best alternative solutions in digital printing in terms of brilliancy, colour depth, fabric handle and wash fastness. Using inks from this range enables printers to adopt a simple urea-free process with significantly reduced energy consumption, washing, machine maintenance and carbon dioxide emissions.

Unrivalled expertise and experience: Huntsman Textile Effects showcased its comprehensive portfolio of dyes, chemicals and digital inks. Featured products included, AVITERA® SE and TERASIL® W/ WW high washfast dyes and HIGH IQ® Repel Durable Water Repellents.

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New sustainable textile solutions from Novozymes

Novozymes, the Danish and enzyme technology supplier, presented three new developments at ITMA that can save laundries and mills water, time, energy and chemicals. Perhaps even more importantly, they offer an opportunity to communicate with consumers about new, more sustainable textile solutions. Sustainability issues are becoming more urgent for the textile industry. Total greenhouse gas emissions from textiles production, at 1.2 bn tonne annually, are more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined, according to Novozymes.

Denim abrasion laundries can save 90 per cent water and cut costs on chemicals and energy with the newest denim-abrasion process with enzymes called Novozymes DeniSafe. DeniSafe is a certified process for spray machines and enzymes. It enables safe use of enzymes in new low water washing machines using mist technology, the company says. The DeniSafe system lets garment laundries reduce water and energy by up to 90 per cent and saves costs on chemicals. The low water levels boost the effect of enzymes, making complete pumice stone replacement a reality, the company adds.

Pre-treatment with less water, energy and time According to Novozymes, cotton mills can save 67 per cent water and 50 per cent energy and time on pretreatment at an equal operational cost with a completely new second-generation enzymatic bioscouring product for cotton knits and towels. Mills get consistent, reliable results because Novozymes Bioprep has new, more powerful enzymes, a carefully screened wetting agent for robust pretreatment, and a novel application design. It is said to be different than earlier enzymatic scouring solutions.

Novozymes launched an entirely new concept to extend the lifetime of fabrics. The enzymes, it says, are designed to meet rising demands from sustainable brands. By using the biopolishing process, mills, laundries and brands can produce cotton knits and now additional fabrics that last at least 20 per cent longer. Novozymes launched Livelong, a way to communicate about biopolishing to make fabrics more sustainable and last longer. “In a single word, Livelong lets people understand,” the company concludes.

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DyStar shows sustainable innovations for future proofing

Dyestuff and chemical manufacturer DyStar promoted its Cadira modules at ITMA, having expanded its application portfolio to encompass more materials. The company says its aim is to help the entire textile value chain save on water and energy, as well as cutting waste, greenhouse gas emissions and process time. The Cadira modules on display included: Cadira Polyester, a module that enables environmentally-friendly exhaust processing of polyester fibres with Dianix dyes and Sera process auxiliaries; Cadira Reactive, an innovative dyeing technology for cellulosic fibres; Cadira Vat, a new dyeing concept for vat exhaust dyeing, complete with a new reduction agent that enables sulphur load elimination in wastewater by up to 85 per cent; Cadira Wool; Cadira Denim, a dyeing technique for indigo to reduce or eliminate the salt freight in wastewater streams; and Cadira Laundry.

Alongside the Cadira modules, DyStar presented its Dianix solution for high wet-fast textiles and its Remazol reactive dyes with advanced fastness properties. Forming part of the extensive Dianix range are the Dianix XF/XF2/SF dyes designed to meet the highest wet-fastness requirements for sportswear, apparel and workwear, and the Dianix AM/HLA dyes made to meet the highest light fastness requirements for automotive textiles, home furnishings and outdoor textiles.

It also introduced its Remazol MAP Black dyes, competitive MAK Amine Purified Reactive Blacks for cellulosic fibres, and new Remazol SAM items. These innovations are suitable for brands and retailers who require low amounts of parachloroaniline and other regulatory controlled aromatic amines on their finished garments, says DyStar. As a supplier of high-quality water-based inks for digital textile printing, DyStar also presented a new generation of its Jettex reactive, acid, disperse and vat inks. All featured Jettex ink ranges are said to enable digital printers to achieve prints with high fastness levels, outstanding depth and sustainable process results, as well as extended printhead lifetimes on all major printheads.

DyStar also partnered with RotaSpray to jointly develop Pad-Spray Steam (PS2 Process), a new continuous dyeing process without intermediate drying for woven cellulosic fibre fabrics with Remazol, Levafix and Indanthren dyes, together with Sera auxiliaries. The company says this latest breakthrough helps to achieve low carbon footprint dyeing, significantly reducing environmental impact. Other key innovations from this partnership include: Single-side spray coating of Imperon pigment preparations to reduce water and energy consumption as a more sustainable solution; and novel dyeing technology on denim warp yarn sheet dyeing ranges to eliminate large dye baths by using different application methods.

A final introduction by the chemical company is the Optidye N Process Optimization product. The Optidye N tool is now integrated into eliot, DyStar’s free, internet-based tool, which provides quick access guidance on product selection and process optimisation. The Optidye N Process Optimization is said to determine the optimum dyeing conditions when using Telon and Isolan dyes, and Sera auxiliaries, in the exhaust dyeing process, helping textile producers achieve better results.

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Eco ink and dye solutions from Tanatex

Tanatex Chemicals aimed to break new ground with ultramodern textile processing solutions launched at ITMA, the company says. These new solutions range from pretreatment to finishing and focus on sustainability, incorporating urea-free ink in Valve Jet technology and a water-saving dyeing process. Tanatex’s solutions are all focused on reducing resources while increasing user safety, the company notes. For example, its team is committed to replacing as many hazardous or polluting chemicals with greener alternatives, increasing safety for both textile manufacturers and the end consumer. To further the development of digital textile printing ink solutions, Tanatex is experimenting with urea-free ink technology for both reactive and acid inks. The company says this is an important pilot for both its own experts and the company’s selected customers, as urea-free products are far less polluting than traditionally used inks. In addition, the company has been working to improve dyeing results and save on resources. Based on the company’s lab results and practical experiences, the company says it has found a new dyeing concept for polyester to reduce dyeing time by up to 25 per cent. At the same time, the company says its products improve dyeing results by optimising the right-first-time rate.

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Tonello’s garment laundry revolution

Tonello’s signature Laundry revolution was once again named a finalist at the ITMA Sustainable Innovation Awards, this time with its All-in-One-System through its collaboration with VF Corporation.

VF Corporation leverages Tonello’s garment finishing system for its Wrangler and Lee denim brands. The All-in-One System combines four technologies that drastically reduce the water needed in the finishing stages of jeans manufacturing to 13.5 l/kg, compared with the traditional process requiring almost 100 l/kg.

Besides saving energy, it also cuts down chemical consumption, processing times and total production costs. “It is, in effect, a revolution based on three clear words: Simplicity, digitisation, and automation,” says Tonello.

According to the company, two technologies centrally manage the entire finishing cycle both efficiently and flexibly, reducing waste and optimising resources. Laser Blaze replaces manual abrasion processes allowing the creation of authentic vintage effects as well as the creation of new projects with extreme ease. The features of Laser Blaze include: A natural vintage look; Crea, the software that speeds up all the operations and has a host of new functions; four working positions for 360° vintage effects; automatic size selection for automatically adapting the design to the size of the garment; and Mago – for remote assistance from Tonello’s specialists and designers. The All-in-One-System performs all washing operations by integrating four sustainable technologies into a single machine: ECOfree 2, which uses ozone in both the water and air, for a brighter garment and lower water and chemical consumption; NoStone+ for authentic, sustainable and pumicefree stone-wash effects; UP, which optimises the washing of the garment, bringing the bath ratio to levels never before seen (LR 2: 1) and reducing consumption, time and costs; and Core, a nebulising system that creates effects and applies products to the garment, improving performance and reducing water consumption by up to 96 per cent.

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Jeanologia shows new production model for denim

Jeanologia, developer of sustainable and efficient technology, presented a new production model based on digitalisation and sustainability that reduces times and simplifies processes, reinventing the way of producing jeans. The company showed a complete solution that achieves 100 per cent ecological production, speeding up time to market through the perfect integration of hardware and software. This new agile and efficient way of producing drastically reduces lead time from months to weeks or even days, adapting to the new market needs, according to Jeanologia.

The innovative process also reduces to a minimum the use of water and chemicals, obtaining significant savings and eliminating discharge; helping companies to reduce their environmental footprint, lower costs and taking care of workers’ health.

At ITMA, Jeanologia exhibited the first complete production centre that included all its technologies and disruptive solutions, from fabric to garment finishing; given that to obtain a sustainable production it is necessary to consider the environmental impact throughout the whole product development process The process starts with G2Dynamic, which completely redefines the fabric finishing without using water and chemicals and improves production enhancing the results during the following processes. Fabric finished with G2Dynamic are laser boosters, which means that during the garment finishing faster and more efficient results are gained.

It goes on to Laundry 5.Zero, the first garment finishing plant that guarantees zero pollution and obtains 85 per cent saving in water. Laundry 5.Zero efficiently combines the technologies: Laser, G2 ozone, e-flow, Smart Boxes and H2Zero, the company’s first water recycling system; eliminating potassium permanganate, pumice stone, substances of concern and discharge from the textile finishing industry, as well as the manual processes of scraping and grinding.

Jeanologia goes a step further and offers all the technology and tools necessary for the textile industry to achieve the perfect communication throughout the process, and thereby, be more efficient and competitive with a completely sustainable product.

“Sustainability has always been our driving force, working to identify the sector needs and developing the necessary technology. We were facing a production model that was obsolete, with an intensive use of manual labour and natural resources. This brought us to completely rethink the way jeans are produced. Today we can assure that we are technologically prepared to introduce a production model which is completely technological, efficient, ethical and sustainable; without compromising product authenticity. With Jeanologia as the expert technological partner, the industry has all the tools it needs to face the future of jean manufacturing,” Enrique Silla, CEO at Jeanologia said.

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Alchemie highlights waterless smart dyeing process

Alchemie hosted an event in ITMA, where the company presented the latest data from its breakthrough endeavour waterless smart dyeing process to brands and tier 1 textile industry suppliers. Alchemie delivers the next generation of inkjet inspired digital manufacturing technologies to enable industries of the future.

At the event, Alchemie demonstrated the technology and reporting key process data demonstrating exceptional wash fastness, excellent dry rub test results and colour consistency of less than 0.5 from polyesters dyed using the endeavour process. Alchemie also provided a detailed end-to-end process analysis to illustrate the 50 per cent cost savings that can be delivered by switching from dyebath to the endeavour process technology, the company said A key feature of the endeavour process includes more profitable production. The process reduces wastewater by more than 95 per cent and energy by over 80 per cent, delivering more than 50 per cent reduction in cost. It also eliminates wastewater. The waterless process demonstrates a remarkable sustainability advantage by eliminating post dyeing washing steps. The technology delivers exceptional results with high colour consistency and colour fastness. With throughputs of more than 2,000 sq mtr per hour, a single line replaces at least five dyebaths. The system can deliver any colour shade required and enables on-demand digital colour changeovers in any run length from a few metres to several kilometres.