Technology

Morgan is a group of companies, based in Adro (Brescia), Italy. Morgan Tecnica Spa and Morgan Dynamics are responsible for the design, creation and manufacturing of machinery/software/products used to automate the cutting rooms of many industries around the globe. It has automated processes in all areas of the cutting room from fabric loading, automatic/intuitive spreading, label printing and state of-the-art cutting machines, all being linked together with our single and multi-level tables.

Next 70 (TAGLIO – Cutter)

The ‘’next’’ generation of electronics is already ‘’present’’ in the new range of automatic cutters Morgan ‘’Next’’, now faster and more precise. Discover the incredible savings of the ‘’Zero Buffer’’ cut technology.

Add more flexibility to your job

Is the most flexible machine of the entire range. It has extremely low power consumption and it is fully digitally controlled, with an amazing ‘’made in Italy’’ design. The vacuum controlled by digital inverter allows to drastically reduce the power consumption as well as the best flexibility in cutting any thickness of lay, from single ply to 7 cm compressed, with any kind of materials, from the elastic to the very hard one.

Morgan Next 70 delivers the highest performances in terms of productivity, quality and reliability, together with one of the lowest maintenance costs in the market. Digital active control of the blade bending in real time allows best cutting precision even on high thickness lays and hardest material. Available in version standard 4,500 rpm or HM 6000 rpm specific for hard and difficult materials.

Software Apps

• Innovative graphics interface (icon touch), modern and user-friendly
• Zero Buffer Cutting
• Automatic detection of symmetric patterns and cutting direction management
• Common Lines Management
• Pattern Proximity Detection and dynamic speed control
• Perimeter harmonization by automatic fixing of digitalization errors
• Best start point automatic calculation for each pattern
• Best cutting window automatic calculation
• Smart cut sequence – to minimise empty movements and improve cutting quality
• Special automatic functions for the waist band (specific for denim)
• Active notch management – dynamic notch type changing
• Notch conversation (on fly, ‘’V’’ notches, castle notches)
• Markers batch list elaboration
• Markers joining
• Detailed statistics & graphic reports
• Compatible with Morgan Analytics integration

Hardware Characteristics

• Interactive multi – touch computer on board • Auto – diagnosis system
• Dynamic Vacuum system, managed by digital inverter • Automatic loading/unloading conveyor system • Power consumption optimization system
• Digital brushless motors • Sharpening belts device • Noiseless
  • Washable and easy removable vacuum filter • Latest generation of Omron electronic devices • Blade bending active control • Long life bristles

Essentials Matching System by Morgan

Essentials Matching system consists of pin Table, Visual pingrid software, pingrid visual Accessories and fabric feeder (optional). The pin table for spreading stripe and plaid fabrics available in module of 4,6 and 8 mtr, structure in oven varnished metal, with 5×5 cm hole on the table top for needle positioning based on matching rules. Motorized needle height adjustment helps for easy and accurate pinning operation.

Visual accessories are a windows PC along with industrial short through projector, wireless keyboard and mouse Visual Pingrid Nest software is the most practical and effective system for viewing and editing markers in real time, directly on the spreading table.

Visual Nest – Save your time & cost
Designed to help the manual spreading of striped or checked fabrics on the needle table, using the projection of the grid of the theoretical repletion ratios, useful for operators to guide the alignment and holding of the fabric, Visual Nest proved itself suitable for multiple other useful applications, both in the manual spreading of patterned fabrics or prints, in the spreading of continuous, fabric to verify the location of defects, in the overlaps management, in the control of compliance with minimum width and length of the layer, during the spreading, etc…

Fabric Feeder is an optional device assist to feed the fabric for pinning operation for easy and fast pinning operation, possible to feed roll from and relaxed from fabrics with easy switch over, especially for knitted fabrics the fabric can be fed with less stretching. Runs on rails of the pinning table very smooth and easy to move by operator.

Technical Specifications and features

• Projection area for each projector of 3.5 by 2 m
• Possibility to control multiple projectors simultaneously
• Possibility to modify the repetition and to move each individual line, in case of irregular repetition
• Possibility to modify the repetition angle, to adapt to off grain fabric
• Possibility to move each individual piece of the marker by mouse, for proper matching
• Possibility to rotate each individual piece of the marker by mouse to follow off grain fabric
• Possibility to customize the colour combination to easily adapt to any type of fabric
• Compatible with ISO 

Established in 2007, Indo Asia Machines Pvt. Ltd. (IAMPL) is a family run enterprise associated with the textile industry since 1950. Over the last nine years of its existence in textile machinery trading industry, it has grown from being a small textile company to a leading supplier of state-of-the-art textiles allied machineries including embroidery machines, water-jet looms, rapier looms, warping machines, digital printing machines and jacquard machines.

In all these years, the company has have carved a niche par excellence in the machinery market through consistently providing world class textile machineries with international standards blended with effective and prompt after sales services. The company recently tied up with Usmani & Co. for their pre and post process equipments.

“Since our inception, we have attained a steep growth in our business and have earned the recognition as one of the most efficient and reliable textile machinery suppliers of India. We have recently tied up with Usmani & Co. for their pre and post process equipments. They make fabric coating machine/padding machine, steam pressure ager, loop steamer, oil fired boiler heat fixation unit, industrial drying tumbler and many more equipments. We were looking for these kinds of machines for quite a long time, which are easily accessible and learnable technology for our customers. So now, our portfolio completes us with complete solution for sublimation and direct digital printing,” says Sandeep Duggal, IndoAsia Machines Pvt. Ltd.

Established in 1997, Usmani Co, offers wide range of quality products of modern ironing and laundry for garment industry. Eco-Steam garment finishing and laundry equipments are specially designed for low power consumption, minimum maintenance and maximum performance. Their products are available in a widerange and economical price. These products are fully automatic, semi-automatic and manual controls to the needs of big industry as well as small user.

“Being an Indian manufacturer, we are proving a good quality solution against imported machines, which are normally very expensive. Our company designs products that excel in sophistication, functionality, and are aesthetically pleasing and economically priced. We offer very cost effective pre and post technology solution, apart from our wide range of garment processing and finishing solutions,” says M Usmani, Director, Usmani & Co. “Surat is a very important market, which has invested a lot in digital textile printing in last few years. As a company, we wanted to focus on manufacturing and having dealer network all over India. With this tie-up we will be able to penetrate into this fast growing region and provide high quality affordable solutions to the customers here”

Laser is being used in apparel industry from nineteenth century for various garment manufacturing applications. There are several advantages of using laser over the conventional processes in cutting, engraving, embossing, denim fading and other applications. In addition, product damage potential is reduced, no/less consumables are needed and no problem of toxic by-product disposal as found in some processes. Today’s laser equipment is a result of continuous research and development of earlier products, which has undergone several changes. The initial laser systems were cumbersome, hard to run and difficult to maintain. However, the modern laser systems are simpler in operation and maintenance. Furthermore, the earlier systems were involved with more safety issues and needed the gasses to be constantly replenished. The garment manufactures around the globe should take the advantage of laser application in the post multi-fibre agreement regime to make their products more competitive. This review focuses on the technology of laser including various classifications. In addition it includes the applications of laser in garment manufacturing, their potential hazards and health related concerns.

Laser is being used in apparel industry from nineteenth century. Recently, the use of laser in apparel industry is increasing in cutting garment patterns, patterning designer neckties, 3D body scanning, denim fading and engraving leather. The major reasons for wide application of laser in garment industries may be due to reduced cost, flexibility and anti-counterfeiting. For example the artwork of high-end necktie producers are digitally stored rather than physical patterns to lower the theft risk. When needed, the digital patterns are converted into physical samples using lasers. Recently, the application of laser in denim engraving is increasing rapidly for value addition by replacing the traditional denim-distressing technics, which will take the denim segment to a height of sophistication that can never be realised by non-laser methods. The unique nature of the garment manufacturing industry needs laser applications, which combines performance with reduced cost by eliminating the handling systems used in non-laser workstations.

As an all-new process, there are several applications of laser in apparel industry. Laser engraving and cutting technologies now being widely applied in many garment industries, fabric production units, other textile and leather industries. Various applications of laser are discussed in the following section.

Fabric fault detection

When fabric is received at the stores of a garment production unit, the faults in the fabric can be detected with morphological image processing based on laser. Laser-based optical Fourier transform analysis can be used for fault detection in the fabric as the pattern is repeated at regular intervals. The fabric is focused with a laser and the diffraction gratings obtained from the periodicity of longitudinal an transverse threads in the fabric are superimposed. A Fourier lens is used to produce the diffraction pattern of the fabric. A second Fourier lens with same focal In laser cutting a laser is used to cut the fabric into the desired pattern shapes. A very fine laser is focused on to the fabric surface, which increases the temperature substantially and cutting takes place due to vaporization. Normally gas lasers (CO2) are used for cutting of fabric. The cutting machine (Fig. 2) includes a source of laser, a cutting head fitted with mirrors to reflect the laser beam to the cutting line, a computer to control the entire system and a suitable mean for removing the cut parts. The application of inert gases (N2, He) during cutting prevents the charring and removes debris and smoke from the cutting area. Like the mechanical cutting devices, a laser beam does not become blunt and need sharpening. Automatic single ply laser cutters are faster (30–40 m/min) than automatic multiple ply knife cutters (5–12 m/min). However, while cutting multiple plies, knife cutters are faster per garment cut and also cheaper.

The limitation of laser cutting is the number of lays of the fabric that can be cut by the beam. Best result is obtained while cutting single or a few lays, but the accuracy and precision is not obtained with several plies. In addition there is a chance of the cut edges to be fused together especially in case of synthetics. In some cases the sealing of the edges of cut patterns and sewn garment parts is essential to prevent fraying, where the laser plays the role. As in garment production facilities emphasis is given in multiple lay cutting, the laser cutting seems unlikely to become widespread. However, it is successfully used in cutting of sails where single ply cutting is the norm and a slight fusing of the edge of synthetics and woven materials is desirable. In addition, laser cutting is used in some areas of home furnishing.

Laser cutting is cheaper compared with the traditional cutting methods Furthermore, as the laser cutting doesn’t have mechanical action, high precision of the cut components at high cutting speed are feasible. The laser cutters are safer and include simple maintenance features, which can be operated for longer duration. The laser cutters can be integrated to the computer technology. It can produce the products at the same time when designing in the computer. Laser cutting machines have faster speed and simpler operation.

Laser cutting machines are suitable for cutting textile fabrics, composites and leather materials. They can operate for a wide range of fabric, which is not possible with die cutters. Hence, laser cutting machines are gradually been accepted in garment manufacturing. The features of laser applications include: Laser marking, laser engraving and laser cutting combined in one step

• No mechanical wear, hence good quality
• No fixation of material is required due to force-free processing
• No fabric fraying in synthetic fibres due to formation of fused edges
• It is clean and lint-free
• Simple process due to integrated computer design
• High quality raw materials and significant cost saving
• Extremely high precision in cutting contours
• High working speed
• Contactless, wear-free technique
• No chips, less waste

Objective evaluation of seam pucker

Garment appearance greatly influences garment quality. Seam pucker negatively affects the garment appearance. There are several methods to measure seam length magnifies and inverts the test sample image. A charge-coupled device (CCD) camera is used to capture the image. The data is transferred and stored in a computer. The computer programming helps in comparing the acquired images with the stored images by converting the image into binary mode. A fault is reported when the measured parameter is deviating from the standard. The severity of the fault depends upon the amount of deviation from the standard.

Laser cutting

After they were introduced in the 19th century, the fashion designers are widely adopting laser cutting in garment manufacturing. In synthetic fabrics, laser cutting produces well-finished edges as the laser melts and fuses the edge, which avoids the problem of fraying produced by conventional knife cutters. Furthermore, use of laser cutting is increasingly used for leather due to the precision of cut components. In fashion accessories such as jewellery, laser cutting can be used to produce new and unusual designs to produce a fusion of apparel design and jewellery style.

pucker, but the conventional rating system developed by American Association of Textile Chemists and Colourists (AATCC) is mainly used. The laser beam can measure the degree of puckering in garments by geometrical models. In this method a seam in the garment is scanned by a 3D laser scanner by putting the garment on a dummy. The laser head can be moved to any 3D space within a confined place by an operator. It is possible to scan the target object from different angles. A pucker profile of the scanned seam can be obtained by processing the image with a 2D digital filter. Physical parameters such as log σ2 (σ is variance) can be obtained from the pucker profile, which can then be linearly related to grade for seam pucker. From the objectively measured log σ2, the pucker grade can be objectively evaluated.

Mass customization

The term mass customization is used when custom-fit garments are obtained depending on the body dimensions and individual’s choice. The very first thing to mass customize garments is the accurate measurements of individual’s body.Lase scanning technology is one of the many techniques used for measurement. Laser scanning technology uses one or multiple thin and sharp stripe lasers to measure body size. Cameras are also used to acquire the scene and assist the laser scanner. The body measurements are derived by applying simple geometrical rules. In order to confirm the harmlessness of the beam, only eye-safe lasers can be used. Additional optical devices such as mirrors can be used to assist a single laser beam. The laser scanning unit (Fig. 3) consisting of light sensors and optical systems focuses on the human body for digitisation. The number of light sensors and optical systems can vary as per the positions of the body. For example, Vitronic1 body scanner consists of three scanning units that can synchronously move vertically along three pillars.

Laser-based denim fading

Now the age of fading of denim by sandblasting is becoming older as the new technology of laser fading is replacing it. In laser fading, a computer drives the laser beam to the material where marking or fading is required. The laser beam decomposes the dye and the resulting vapours are vented away. The material fades only where the beam impacts on the fabric. Commercially two types of lasers are being used: Solid based (wavelength of μm) and gas based (wavelength of 10 μm). The desired degree of fading depends upon the wavelength, power density, and pulse width of the laser beam. The method of marking or fading by laser is more environmental friendly as compared to acid washing or sandblasting.

• High working speed without mechanical contact
• No wear and tear of components
• Reduced waste
• Complete exhaust and filtering
• Exact contours possible

In laser engraving laser is used to mark or engrave an object. The process is very complex, and often computerised systems are used to drive the laser head. In spite of the complexity, very precise and clean engravings can be obtained with high rate of production. The technique does not involve physical contact with the engraving surface, hence, no wear and tear. The marks produced by laser engraving are clean, crisp and permanent. In addition, lasers are faster than other conventional methods used for product imprinting, which provides greater versatility in material selection. One machine can be used to cut through thin materials as well as make engravings on them. Laser engraving is used to engrave the printing screens, for hollowing, for creating pattern buttons, to engrave leather, denim etc. (Fig. 5). Pictures, flower patterns and even personalised signatures can be engraved on leather shoes, leather bag, wallet, leather belt, leather sofa and leather clothes, greatly increasing the added value of products. In addition laser engraving is used to create embroidered pattern in the fabric by colour fading and burning the fabrics. The low cost sealed CO2 lasers are preferred for laser engraving.

Denim engraving is another fast-growing application of laser using sealed CO2 lasers. The laser is used to create minute designs and patterns on denim fabric as well as finished denims. This technic can be used in place of the traditional technique such as sandblasting and acid washing. The accuracy and design flexibility is very wide, which can’t be achieved by the traditional methods. Lasers can produce 3D effects by techniques such as embroidering, embossing, or even apparent cuts, tears and mends. Any image that is created in a computer aided design (CAD), can be transferred to denim by suitable laser process. While using lasers, features such as good mode quality, high power stability, real-time control of laser power and fast pulse rise-time are the important parameters that can lead to colour change without charring or other damage to the fabric. Such damage could reduce the product life and cosmetically unacceptable. The advantages of laser engraving over traditional methods include:

Welded garment production

Welding is an alternative process of joining fabrics for garment production where the thermoplastic materials are joined together by the application of heat. The heat can be supplied by ultrasonic or by high powerful laser. The welded garment though weaker than the sewn counterpart, gives better appearance as it does not contain bulky seam and is more flexible.

Bar code scanning

The scanners used to scan the barcodes for product identification typically uses helium–neon (He–Ne) lasers. The laser beam bounces out of a rotating mirror while scanning the code. This sends a modulated beam to a computer, which contains the product information. Semiconductor based-lasers can also be used for this purpose. However, some of the recent manufacturers are using Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) based tags instead of barcodes due to certain advantages. The RFID tag can be processed quickly and it avoids the physical handling of the product as in barcode systems.

Laser marking

Laser can also be used in marking on various surfaces. The advantages of laser marking include fast, high precision and clear marking on products of varying contour and hardness. It can also be used for a wide range of organic polymers where precession can be obtained even with complex designs. Laser marking is durable and can be applied in clothing, leather and metals. Laser marking is considered to be the best choice for branded clothing and marking fashion accessories during processing.

Miscellaneous uses

There are many other applications of laser in apparel industry as discussed below:

• In some stitching machines (e.g., automatic welt pocket attaching machine) laser beam is engaged for automatic and accurate positioning of the welt and to make a slit across the fabric
• In some metal detection machines laser beam is employed to find if any needle part is there in the final finished garment
• Laser-engraving machine can engrave any decoration on the surface layer of any material, making the products looking high grade and exquisite
• Laser technology is gaining impetus in garment finishing which can produce various surface ornamentations without any wet processing. This technique is very accurate and can work fast with good repeatability and reproducibility
• The application of antimicrobial finishes into textiles has significantly improved compared to the past. Laser treatment was used for durable antibacterial properties on cotton fabric using silver nanoparticles

Though the traditional thought has it that a “stitch in time saves nine,” what if there weren’t a stitch to begin with? It might be time to change the saying to something like “a touch of glue saves two” or “a welded seam is keen.” Just the thought of less bulky and lighter-weight gear and garments, all with more pleasing aesthetic lines (dare we say, fashionable?) is enough to get many designers “permanently bonded” to this new technology!

Adhesive Films

Bemis is the maker of Sewfree, one of the leading adhesive films being used to replace stitches for seams. Seamless technology, or products using Sewfree in construction, range from intimate apparel, lifestyle garments, technical outerwear, accessory items and even footwear, according to Chris Parlee, Marketing Manager for Bemis. Sewfree adhesive film is being used to bond fabrics and components—including everything from lace and meshes to ripstop nylons, all in one step—by such manufacturers in the outdoor industry as Arc’Teryx, Mountain Hardwear and Marmot. “I would say that Mountain Hardwear and Arc’Teryx are leading the pack here,” said Paul Kramer, Vice President of design and sourcing at Mountain Hardwear.

“There are some surfing companies that are big into the glue, but they are fairly basic in their approach. A lot of them don’t seem to be very technical.Arc’Teryx and Mountain Hardwear seem to be introducing the products and inventing new techniques and ideas for glued and welded construction.”Parlee said that Sewfree is being used to complement the stretch and recovery in what could be called “strategic” locations of activewear and fitness shorts.

In apparel, welding and bonding have been used for the past several years to apply pockets and zippers, make darts and pleats, hang pocket bags, hem garments, make stiffer plackets or panels, and apply waistcords. The primary advantage is that components, like pockets and zippers, can be placed without having to cut and sew the garment. Hems and plackets are also being glued to offer a clean look, eliminate seam tape, and prevent water leakage in the hem, flap or cuff.

“Many times these types of applicationsare done for aesthetic reasons,” Kramer said. “But, it is also important for technical reasons—in order to save weight, improve waterproofness or to increase breathability by eliminating layers of fabric. The goal is to weld or glue a waterproof/ breathable garment together so that seam tape can be eliminated, making the garment significantly lighter, softer and more breathable

Welded Seams

Welded (seamless) construction is being used in sleeping bags, tents and packs. In sleeping bags, baffles are bonded to the shell fabric to prevent the shell from being punctured; however, this is only now beingdone on fabrics that have a laminate or coating, so that the waterproof integrity of the outer fabric is maintained. Similar methods for garment construction are used, but with some slight modification. Mountain Hardwear considers the details of its construction method to be proprietary. “In tents, Mountain Hardwear is using seamless construction to attach a coated floor to a fly. This eliminates the need to tape, saves weight and also makes new construction techniques possible,” said Kramer. “Currently, welding or gluing critical seams for tents is not possible due to the extreme stresses involved.”

Methods To The Madness

There are two basic methods for applying bonded and welded seams. The first method uses an adhesive film (thermoplastic film) for bonding two fabrics (substrates) together. In this technique, the adhesive film is slit into tapes and applied in strategic locations, or the adhesive film can be laminated to wide-width fabrics, Bemis’ Parlee explained. “During the process, the adhesive is tacked or laminated to one of the substrates, and the second substrate can be laid on top,” he said. “Then, heat and pressure activate the adhesive. The film melts and penetrates into the fabrics and creates a bond between the two.”

The second method involves welding two fabrics with radio frequency/ ultrasound. Ultrasonic echnology involves the creation and channeling of high frequency vibratory waves that cause a rapid buildup of heat in synthetic fabrics. The heat can be used to weld, bond, cut or slit the materials, asdesired. The ultrasonic bonding process is fast, accurate and efficient.

Janet Devine, President of Sonobond Ultrasonics, a supplier of ultrasonic equipment for bonding textiles, said, “With ultrasonics, the need for consumables such as adhesives is eliminated. In addition, the production runs efficiently because there is no need to allow time for glues or other solvents to dry.”

There are many advantages of bonding or welding, according to Parlee. “Bonded garment technology allows for a seamless look and feel,” he said.“A slimmer profile and less abrasion to the enduser are achieved with bonded seaming. A bonded seam can also initiate the stretch and recovery of the fabric, more so than stitching. A bonded seam can be waterproof, and a bonded garment typically weighs less than a sewn garment.”

Bonding also reduces or eliminates the amount of thread used so there are no threads to wear out in a seam, Kramer said. “Then, you can also put otherthings into the seams, like elastic. The seam can stretch, whereas most seams that are sewn and taped do not stretch.” Additionally, bonding allows.